Any one has good (or bad) experience with this roof tape ?

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Just my 'sperience-

I used ET along the roof edges and across the roof-to-end-cap seams on my WBGO Class C following all the directions re precleaning and rolling out with a hard rubber roller. I did not seal the edges of the tape. I sold it about 6 years later and it looked almost the same as when I applied it and never a leak. My rig lived outside all the years I owned it. Great product. BUT..... I would never use it on things like roof vents, skylights etc which you know will require replacement one day. It is really, really tough to remove.

I was never in a severe hailstorm with the rig but I was always worried about how the tape would hold up with hailstone strikes.

Good times and safe travels to ya.
 
I wanted a maintenance free roof when I bought my RV in 2014. I put Eternabond along all 4 sides of the roof and around all the vents. Still looks new and doesn't stain. Haven't needed to touch it in 10 years. This is the 2nd RV I've used it on and I would recommend it to anyone. But make sure its really the Eternabond brand. There are a lot of inferior knockoffs.

1712703793081.jpegeternabond1.JPGeternabond cabover.JPG
 
Just my 'sperience-

I used ET along the roof edges and across the roof-to-end-cap seams on my WBGO Class C following all the directions re precleaning and rolling out with a hard rubber roller. I did not seal the edges of the tape. I sold it about 6 years later and it looked almost the same as when I applied it and never a leak. My rig lived outside all the years I owned it. Great product. BUT..... I would never use it on things like roof vents, skylights etc which you know will require replacement one day. It is really, really tough to remove.

I was never in a severe hailstorm with the rig but I was always worried about how the tape would hold up with hailstone strikes.

Good times and safe travels to ya.
I have had 2 hailstorms which took out my vent covers but bounced off the Eternabond. It is just as flexible after 10 years. I replaced the vent covers without removing the tape. You can cut it if you needed to replace the mounting flanges then just put more Eternabond over the old.. I did seal the edges of the tape with a 2" stainless steel drywall roller and it's not coming off without using a heat gun. But that is reassuring.
 
I have had 2 hailstorms which took out my vent covers but bounced off the Eternabond. It is just as flexible after 10 years. I replaced the vent covers without removing the tape. You can cut it if you needed to replace the mounting flanges then just put more Eternabond over the old.. I did seal the edges of the tape with a 2" stainless steel drywall roller and it's not coming off without using a heat gun. But that is reassuring.
For future use; FantasticFan lids have a lifetime warranty. Dometic still honors that, IF they have your fan model lids in stock. The rest of the unit comes with a 7 yr. warranty. The model# is on the motor sticker.
My fan lids were 20 yrs.old when one cracked fro sun rot. When I called a woman named Fanny answered, she was very polite and asked how many lids I needed, 3 I said. I asked about shipping, she said-no charge. Four days later FedeX delivered a big box containing 3 lids.
 
I have a 31-year-old DP MH that had Eternabond installed over the center roof seam before 2013. It's still fine.

Clean with Eternabond cleaner or acetone, apply Eternabond primer, put the tape down and then press hard using a metal roller, and it'll be there just about forevever. The pressure is what makes it work, not the initial stickiness.
 
I've used Eternabond and also Dicor's Seal-tite equivalent, plus a brand I've forgotten that I bought at my local hardware store. Have used them in a number of seal jobs on my RVs, a double-wide manufactured home, and metal utility buildings. They all performed marvelously and lasted indefinitely. The TPO top skin is almost impervious to stains and wear, and also excellent in damage-resistance. And the adhesive power is incredible.

But (in my opinion) there are some downside that may make the tapes not the best choice for every possible usage:
  • It's hard to form over a compound curve (e.g. a rounded corner) without wrinkles that are both ugly and leave gaps where water might penetrate
  • Miserable to remove if you need to replace whatever is underneath (but lap sealant isn't any picnic either)
  • Can't be squeezed into hidden gaps like a sealant, e.g. along vertical trim strips.
  • Requires enough working room for you to lay the tape down smoothly and roll it firmly into place. Some spots are simply too hard to get at for a good job with tape, whereas flex sealant can be squeezed in (and is very forgiving).
  • Not all that great for butt-type joints subject to movement, especially if the joint has a gap. The tape bridges the gap rather than filling it, and extreme movement can open it to water penetration. The ends of the tape are the most vulnerable. An example is may be the front cap to roof seam on some rigs, where the joint can shift both laterally and fore-aft (widening the gap). A quality RV caulk will have fill the any gap and stretch more than tapes. A combination of caulk & tape may be the best for that type of seam.
 

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