Hello I've recently bought a fifth wheel camper for insanely cheap and I'm going to be attempting a full restoration on it starting with the roof since it rains as much inside as it does outside. I have several questions about the process. Like if I need to support the roof with inside braces if I'm going to be redoing all the plywood on top. And if I rum across water damaged support beams am I able to also get to those from the top as well or if I need to do those from the inside to start before I start the roof demolition process. Just kind of need some guidance to start me through the process. I'll be doing all the work myself and not going to take it to a shop, due to that's my home. I assume everything needs to be replaced do to the current condition of the roof.
*HELP* Brand New Roof
- Thread starter Morg
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Rene T
Site Team
Sounds like this is going to be a big project and as many would say a huge money pit. They will also say to try and figure out what you think it may cost and put that money towards a rv with no where near the damage this one has.
If the roof is leaking that bad, chances are you are going to find some serious rot and mold inside the wall and very possible all the way down the wall and into the floor. This would be too big of a project for me but it may work out for you
With that the only way I can help is by saying are you prepared to do this work in a covered enclosure such as a barn or an open building. It sounds like it may take a long time so be prepared and good luck. Keep us informed of your progress.
If the roof is leaking that bad, chances are you are going to find some serious rot and mold inside the wall and very possible all the way down the wall and into the floor. This would be too big of a project for me but it may work out for you
With that the only way I can help is by saying are you prepared to do this work in a covered enclosure such as a barn or an open building. It sounds like it may take a long time so be prepared and good luck. Keep us informed of your progress.
Laura & Charles
Well-known member
Welcome to the forums! Lots of friendly and knowledgeable folks here! Someone better able to address your specific question(s) will be along shortly.
I’ll get the ball rolling with some general thoughts. It will simplify things for you if you put the year, manufacturer, and model in your signature. Also, one topic per post is best. Often one topic turns into several related topics. That becomes very confused if your original post asks both a plumbing and electrical question. Pictures almost always help us understand whatever you’re asking about.
You’ve certainly got yourself quite the project. If you don’t have someplace indoors to park it while you work on restoring it, you should probably get some tarps on the roof. Also, if the HVAC is operable, getting it plugged in will make it much more comfortable to work on. It will also provide power for plugging in tools.
You’ll need to determine damage and structural soundness from the inside. And that needs to be determined before getting on the roof. I’m imagining damage to walls with black mold. Depending on year and make, your structural supports may be wood or may be aluminum. I would think exposing all obviously damaged areas (removing inside walls) would be your starting point. A complete assessment of what you’re up against is needed to determine if it’s worthwhile to proceed. (Even if you’re doing all the work, it may be too far gone to make it financially reasonable.) I’ve never done anything like this; somebody more experienced will be along shortly.
From your initial description, you’re probably going to need a dumpster… there’s going to be a lot to get rid of.
Best of luck!
edit: I see Rene has beat me to te first reply. Apologizes if I’m parroting some of his thoughts.
I’ll get the ball rolling with some general thoughts. It will simplify things for you if you put the year, manufacturer, and model in your signature. Also, one topic per post is best. Often one topic turns into several related topics. That becomes very confused if your original post asks both a plumbing and electrical question. Pictures almost always help us understand whatever you’re asking about.
You’ve certainly got yourself quite the project. If you don’t have someplace indoors to park it while you work on restoring it, you should probably get some tarps on the roof. Also, if the HVAC is operable, getting it plugged in will make it much more comfortable to work on. It will also provide power for plugging in tools.
You’ll need to determine damage and structural soundness from the inside. And that needs to be determined before getting on the roof. I’m imagining damage to walls with black mold. Depending on year and make, your structural supports may be wood or may be aluminum. I would think exposing all obviously damaged areas (removing inside walls) would be your starting point. A complete assessment of what you’re up against is needed to determine if it’s worthwhile to proceed. (Even if you’re doing all the work, it may be too far gone to make it financially reasonable.) I’ve never done anything like this; somebody more experienced will be along shortly.
From your initial description, you’re probably going to need a dumpster… there’s going to be a lot to get rid of.
Best of luck!
edit: I see Rene has beat me to te first reply. Apologizes if I’m parroting some of his thoughts.
If it’s been leaking that bad for a time you’ve likely got some major interior water damage as well. First however is the roof, it’s unlikely the entire roof is gone but yeah, work in sections supporting the roof from underneath as you go. Hope you’re doing this under a cover.
Rene T
Site Team
Before I did anything, I would be removing some of the wall paneling just to see where you stand as far as studs etc.. also go around on the edges checking for soft spots in the flooring. If you find some, remove the carpeting or whatever is on the floor to see the extent. No sense doing anything to the roof if the walls and floor are completely beyond repair
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
If we're disregarding time, effort and cost this is approached like any other renovation project. Keep peeling things back until you reach sound substrate. In the case of RV's it's not beyond possibility you'll run out of trailer before you get to sound substrate, so be ready to accept it may be a total loss. But better to find that out up front than try and do this piecemeal and put a ton of effort into it before figuring out it's beyond repair. There's a reason old RV's are so cheap, and why you don't see any that are more than 30 years old or so that aren't decomposing in a field somewhere. They're not built to last, and rebuilding them is painstaking and expensive. If you really love the thing it might be personally worth it but something just a little bit newer and not rotting might be a better choice.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
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Ex-Calif
Well-known member
Are we understanding that you will live in this during the restoration? If so I don't see how that is practical.
I bought a cab over camper for $100 with the idea that I could repair some water damage.
But to answer your question, the amount of temporary framing will depend on how much rot you have to cut away. I would say at a minimum expect to put in cross beams to hold the walls plumb.
Then if the roof has been leaking expect the walls to be involved. The issue with the walls is whatever repair is done has to integrate into the outer skin with a minimum of waviness and no delamination.
Here's how my camper project ended up. Took me 5 days to cut it up and haul it to the dump.
RedForeman
Well-known member
In an amazing coincidence, I stumbled upon a Youtuber doing such a job (link). The video series will be obvious. When the channel page loads, tap the "videos" tab. Roof and extensive water damage repair on what looks like an otherwise fairly sound 25 ft-ish, early 80's model travel trailer. She's a physically fit 30 or so year old with seemingly unlimited enthusiasm and energy, and apparently flips rehabbed campers as an occupation.
So far she's up to 14 "daily" episodes over a couple months. So far she's got the roof back on and starting the interior work. She shows a time-lapse video of herself doing the work while narrating what's being done. And that's on a camper that isn't in terrible shape at first glance.
My take was: I can do all of that and am reasonably fit for my age (58). Would I tackle something like that if I had the time and didn't need to live in it? Doubtful. Everything this young woman is doing in a day, would take me double or triple that. I can't stand the heat and awkward working positions as well as I once did at that age. She's into it for at least half a month of actual work, and still barely halfway done. Nothing quick about it.
If that was my only home? No way.
Her videos are worth a watch to see how it's done, and decide for yourself if that's something you're up for.
So far she's up to 14 "daily" episodes over a couple months. So far she's got the roof back on and starting the interior work. She shows a time-lapse video of herself doing the work while narrating what's being done. And that's on a camper that isn't in terrible shape at first glance.
My take was: I can do all of that and am reasonably fit for my age (58). Would I tackle something like that if I had the time and didn't need to live in it? Doubtful. Everything this young woman is doing in a day, would take me double or triple that. I can't stand the heat and awkward working positions as well as I once did at that age. She's into it for at least half a month of actual work, and still barely halfway done. Nothing quick about it.
If that was my only home? No way.
Her videos are worth a watch to see how it's done, and decide for yourself if that's something you're up for.
RedForeman
Well-known member
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Calling the structure of an RV roof a "support beam" is gross exaggeration. You are probably thinking rafters and a solid substrate, but the reality is almost certainly thin luan panels with some stiffeners, probably just 1x2 wood but maybe metal if a recent enough model.
In any case, the process is to start skinning back layers (wall and roof) to see what (if any) undamaged layers remain. If you have to work while standing on the roof itself, be sure to use something to spread the load of your weight, and yes you may have to support from underneath in some cases. If, for example, you have to cut or remove a cross-brace.
There are various videos on YouTube of roof rebuild jobs and I suggest you review a few of them to give you an idea of what you may encounter.
In any case, the process is to start skinning back layers (wall and roof) to see what (if any) undamaged layers remain. If you have to work while standing on the roof itself, be sure to use something to spread the load of your weight, and yes you may have to support from underneath in some cases. If, for example, you have to cut or remove a cross-brace.
There are various videos on YouTube of roof rebuild jobs and I suggest you review a few of them to give you an idea of what you may encounter.
Contributor
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To fix a very rotted roof, you will have to remove the whole roof and ceiling. Here is a picture of the typical framing.
