OK, this year we purchased our first travel trailer. Its a 1970 terry 16' total length. Dryweight is around 3000lbs and I tow it with a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2L standard wheelbase. I got an eaz-lift weight distribution setup and swaybar setup and hooked it up. I ordered the correct length shank to have my trailer sit level with the truck and believe I have the weight distribution setup correct. The the truck is settling slightly more in the front than the rear without any gear in the truck. I figure the two coolers we put in the truck and the family its gonna settle pretty even. I towed it this past weekend 2hours each way to the campground and it was almost all highway driving. This is a single axle trailer and on the highway it seemed if the road was kinda crappy the trailer pulled the truck around a little and when the wind was kicking up on sunday on the way back I didn't feel comfortable going over 55mph. I've never towed a camper this heavy before this season so I don't know if what I'm feeling is normal or not. I never saw the trailer actually out of control, but I definitely felt it in the truck. I read about the tractor trailer "shockwave" before I left, and I felt that, it was a little nerve racking the first time I felt it, but got used to it and if I saw a truck coming I knew to be ready for it. So, what I'm asking is if the trailer is level and I'm not sagging in the rear of the truck and weight distribution and sway bars are working, is this what I'm always going to feel or is there anything else I can do to get a little more control over the situation? Oh, and when going downhill, am I supposed to feel like I have less controler over the trailer?
as good as it gets?
- Thread starter ddurfey
- Start date
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Marc L
Well-known member
Sway can be caused or increased by a number of things, such as, but not limited to the following:
- low tire pressure (truck and trailer), check and adjust as necessary
- improperly set weight distribution hitch. You said you just looked at the stance, you should really measure. On a flat surface without the trailer, measure the distance from the front fender to the ground (A), then measure from the rear fender to the ground (B), take the difference between the two (B-A=C). So "C" is the difference in height between front and rear. Now with the trailer hooked up and the weight distribution hitch set, measure A and B again, calculate "C". "C" with the trailer should be equal or up to 1" less than without
- not enough tongue weight, should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight, impossible to guess, you need a scale to determine this. You could do some trial and error and put more stuff in the front of the trailer next time
- trailer may be too heavy for the SUV, according to Trailer Life Ratings, the Trailblazer's towing capacity ranges between 5100 to 6300 depending on the axle gear ratio. That towing capacity is for a 150lbs driver and a full tank of gas, anything you put in the SUV in addition to that (passengers, gear) has to be subtracted from the towing capacity. The dry weight of the trailer is a fictional number as it does not include any options or accessories added to the trailer, and also does not include your gear and supplies. Having the truck and trailer weighed at a commercial scale when ready to hit the road is ideal, short of that, you should check at the GVWR of the trailer, should be on the sticker plate on the driver side of the trailer. I'm not saying your combo is overweight, I do not have all the numbers to draw that type of conclusion, just that it should be something you should look into
- improperly set sway control, does your WD hitch have built-in sway control or do you have a friction bar on the side? Maybe the tension is not set right on it
- low tire pressure (truck and trailer), check and adjust as necessary
- improperly set weight distribution hitch. You said you just looked at the stance, you should really measure. On a flat surface without the trailer, measure the distance from the front fender to the ground (A), then measure from the rear fender to the ground (B), take the difference between the two (B-A=C). So "C" is the difference in height between front and rear. Now with the trailer hooked up and the weight distribution hitch set, measure A and B again, calculate "C". "C" with the trailer should be equal or up to 1" less than without
- not enough tongue weight, should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight, impossible to guess, you need a scale to determine this. You could do some trial and error and put more stuff in the front of the trailer next time
- trailer may be too heavy for the SUV, according to Trailer Life Ratings, the Trailblazer's towing capacity ranges between 5100 to 6300 depending on the axle gear ratio. That towing capacity is for a 150lbs driver and a full tank of gas, anything you put in the SUV in addition to that (passengers, gear) has to be subtracted from the towing capacity. The dry weight of the trailer is a fictional number as it does not include any options or accessories added to the trailer, and also does not include your gear and supplies. Having the truck and trailer weighed at a commercial scale when ready to hit the road is ideal, short of that, you should check at the GVWR of the trailer, should be on the sticker plate on the driver side of the trailer. I'm not saying your combo is overweight, I do not have all the numbers to draw that type of conclusion, just that it should be something you should look into
- improperly set sway control, does your WD hitch have built-in sway control or do you have a friction bar on the side? Maybe the tension is not set right on it
I checked the tire pressure last trip out and it was a little low, so I did top off before I left. Saying the weight distribution is right is after measuring and making adjustments to the weight distribution. I was sitting aobut 1/2" lower in the rear than the front when I left for the campground and it felt tongue heavy on the way up. I took all the tools necessary to do adjustments once I got there and added a shim washer to transfer more weight forward and it does not feel as tongue heavy on the truck, but the sway and trailer handling with wind, passing trucks, and poor pavement felt the same. I measured after I got home and I'm now sitting a half inch lower in the front than the rear, but that was with no gear or people inside the truck. Thats why I figured once I add people and the two coolers we keep in the truck (one for drinks on the road), and electric cooler with food. Family is two adults, one kid. I had more tongue weight when I left the house to go up (i put the three totes with firewood in the front of the camper) but they were empty for the ride home. I try to keep anything with weight in front of the axle on the trailer and balanced. The only actual weight info I have on the camper is the gross weight listed on the title. Theres no tags anywhere listing weights. I have thought about getting it weighed to see what the actual weight is. I highly doubt its above the tow ratings of the truck, with my motor and gear ratio its listed to tow 5000lbs. I have a friction bar for sway control on the side of the hitch, and I did set the tension slightly higher (1/2 turn) because it was windier when we left than when we towed up so I figured it wouldnt hurt. I never saw the trailer out of control, I just felt it pulling around on the truck when the wind came along pretty hard and with the bad pavejobs where there was construction. I'll try and get the weights, I'd have to find a scale around here to measure me.
Marc L
Well-known member
For sway control, you would be much happier with a Reese Dual Cam or Equalizer Hitch
You said you had more tongue weight going up then coming back. Did you see a difference in handling?
You said you had more tongue weight going up then coming back. Did you see a difference in handling?
Carl L
Moderator Emeritus
We have articles on trailer weighing and on WD hitch adjustment in our library. Check them out, they may help. Since you think you have stability issues, when you weigh the trailer, get a tongue weight (TW) which should be at least 10% of the trailer weight, and can range up to 15%. Too light a TW can destabilize your tow. TW can be increased by loading weight forward of the trailer axles. If your water tank is ahead of the axles, filling it is a convenient way to do so.
There is no way you are not going to feel the passing of semi-trailers, or panel trucks, or motorhomes for that matter. As you have found, keeping an eye peeled on your rear view mirrors allows you to prepare for them.
Trailers are well advised to slow down in cross winds. Speed tends to destabilize a trailer an makes them more sensitive to lateral forces like those generated by passing vehicles and gusting winds.
I do not know what you are running for tire pressure but in towing you should be moving your standard pressure up toward the limit printed on the tire sidewalls of both the trailer and the truck. Consider switching to LT service rated tires at your next tire change both with truck and trailer -- they have stiffer sidewalls.
On hills there is an old rule: Go down the hill in the same gear you went up it. Use your engine braking of lower gears to control your speed down touching the service brakes occasionally to keep speed trimmed back.
Finally, remember in towing you have joined the slow lane bunch. Keep to the right and relax -- you are supposed to be having fun after all.
There is no way you are not going to feel the passing of semi-trailers, or panel trucks, or motorhomes for that matter. As you have found, keeping an eye peeled on your rear view mirrors allows you to prepare for them.
Trailers are well advised to slow down in cross winds. Speed tends to destabilize a trailer an makes them more sensitive to lateral forces like those generated by passing vehicles and gusting winds.
I do not know what you are running for tire pressure but in towing you should be moving your standard pressure up toward the limit printed on the tire sidewalls of both the trailer and the truck. Consider switching to LT service rated tires at your next tire change both with truck and trailer -- they have stiffer sidewalls.
On hills there is an old rule: Go down the hill in the same gear you went up it. Use your engine braking of lower gears to control your speed down touching the service brakes occasionally to keep speed trimmed back.
Finally, remember in towing you have joined the slow lane bunch. Keep to the right and relax -- you are supposed to be having fun after all.
I'm definitely going to find a scale and see what this thing weighs. I didn't notice any difference in handling with less tongue weight, but I also made an adjustment to the hitch at the campground moving more weight forward with the hitch. I added a shim washer angling the head down which transferred more weight to the front axle and did feel a little less tongue heavy (truck getting the cushion effect over bumps in town, milled up roadways on the interstate). I didn't seem uncomfortable doing the speeds I was doing. I was able to pretty much keep it at 55 to 60 when there werent crosswinds. Just seemed like most people were passing, most of the highways I took were 65mph which means most people were doing 80. I think the most uncomfortable spots were downhill. The truck definitely felt different and when I'd get a gust of wind or a passing truck it felt more than twice as bad. I just think I'm real close to being dialed in 100%, just looking for more pointers. I'll source out a scale and get the numbers to help you guys help me.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Your tow problems sound like inadequate tongue weight to me. You haven't weighed the tongue, so you don't know whether it is high or low. Changing the weight distribution does not alter the trailer tongue weight - it only affects how the tow vehicle carries it. Those are two different things. You really need 10-15% of the trailer's total weight on the tongue - I personally like a minimum of 12% for "good towing manners".
The tongue weight can change quite a bit with the trailer loading too. Adding 40 lbs on the tongue, e.g. two full propane bottles) or maybe 50 lbs at the back of the trailer (e.g. a couple bikes on a bumper rack) can make a definite difference in the tongue weight percentage. So can a full water tank vs an empty one.
Read the Library article on weighing a trailer and then go find that scale. Truck stops, moving van companies, fertilizer or sand 7 gravel companies, etc. are common places to get weighed. It's not expensive - usually under $10 if no official weight certificate is issued.
The tongue weight can change quite a bit with the trailer loading too. Adding 40 lbs on the tongue, e.g. two full propane bottles) or maybe 50 lbs at the back of the trailer (e.g. a couple bikes on a bumper rack) can make a definite difference in the tongue weight percentage. So can a full water tank vs an empty one.
Read the Library article on weighing a trailer and then go find that scale. Truck stops, moving van companies, fertilizer or sand 7 gravel companies, etc. are common places to get weighed. It's not expensive - usually under $10 if no official weight certificate is issued.
Pahighlander
Member
I think you may have your too much weight transferred to the front with your current hitch adjustment. My rule of thumb is to have the vehicle set level after the trailer is loaded. I have found that too much to front makes the rear of the truck feel unstable.ddurfey said:
well, i just took the last trip for the year and unfortunately i didnt get a chance to get weighed. so instead, i decided to toy with my weight inside the trailer. i was starting in the front and working my way to the rear with cargo (wood, water, misc.) so instead i started in the rear and worked my way forward. on the way up the mountain it was windy as hell with 40mph gusts. between that and going uphill most the way i didnt get over 55mph. the one thing i did like was the lack of the "cushion" effect going over bumps in the road. so on the way back, i loaded up similiarly, refilling my 7gallon jug and filling my waste jug(another 7 gallons), and it road really good. there was very little wind so i pushed forward and felt comfortable doing 65 in the 65mph zones. i actually dont like to push that fast anyways because of my trucks mileage but it was nice to know that i could keep up with the pace and occasionally pass someone. i also cranked another 1/4turn on the swaybar and that seemed to make a difference with the passing trucks. so, still without a scale i'm kinda still geussing where i'm at weight wise so i'm still gonna try and get out to one and see where i'm truly at. thanks for all the advice so far.
