I really need help, I have a Forrest River Windjammer 3008 and water is coming up through the floor! It is coming from underneath the kitchen sink but none of the kitchen features are leaking. Tried draining the fresh water, emptied the galley tank with no success. The floor leaks both when the city water is on, or the water pump with faucets running. The only thing that stops it is when I turned the water off completely. The water coming from the floor seams to be fresh water, but that tank is not full. The black water tank may be full but it?s not draining very well when valve is open. Totally lost and would really appreciate any help!
Water coming up through the floor!
- Thread starter Lawlordt
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Henry J Fate
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Water leaks are sometimes difficult. Locating the source is important. If the water is coming up from the floor then it would most likely be a pressurized pipe.
Look in your outside storage areas close to the leak. Maybe you can find access to pipes from there. You may also find water in the storage.
Drains should not be running slow. Be sure your drains are not clogged and that the rv is level. Proper leveling will help the drains.
Getting to the water leak is important. Extended water leaks can cause considerable damage.
Look in your outside storage areas close to the leak. Maybe you can find access to pipes from there. You may also find water in the storage.
Drains should not be running slow. Be sure your drains are not clogged and that the rv is level. Proper leveling will help the drains.
Getting to the water leak is important. Extended water leaks can cause considerable damage.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Is it coming up through the floor or perhaps traveling from a nearby site.
IN my case it turned out to be a leaking water heater tank the 2nd time
The first time it was a leaking water pump.
I won't bother with the other possible sources cause..... lots.
IN my case it turned out to be a leaking water heater tank the 2nd time
The first time it was a leaking water pump.
I won't bother with the other possible sources cause..... lots.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The symptoms indicate that a pipe or tube with pressurized water is leaking. The amount of water in the fresh tank is not relevant as long as the pump is on an maintaining pressure. And city water is pressurized at all times by the city source. There is no magic answer - you will need to locate the leaking water line and get it repaired.
Is the water literally flowing or bubbling up, or is it just an ever-widening wet spot? Flowing water is usually quite near the actual leak, while a wet spot can often be from a leak that is actually some distance away.
Since the water is near the kitchen sink area, it's fair bet the leak is in a water line that feeds the kitchen water taps. I'd start at that end and work back toward the source.
Is the water literally flowing or bubbling up, or is it just an ever-widening wet spot? Flowing water is usually quite near the actual leak, while a wet spot can often be from a leak that is actually some distance away.
Since the water is near the kitchen sink area, it's fair bet the leak is in a water line that feeds the kitchen water taps. I'd start at that end and work back toward the source.
Prior member
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On the water coming up through the floor it sounds like a broken pipe, or fitting.
On the Black water draining slow when the vale is open: If your tank is full it should gush out when you open the valve. It sounds like you have a blockage.
It sounds like you are not too handy, so I would get a RV repair plumber to check things out and get repairs
Jack L
On the Black water draining slow when the vale is open: If your tank is full it should gush out when you open the valve. It sounds like you have a blockage.
It sounds like you are not too handy, so I would get a RV repair plumber to check things out and get repairs
Jack L
cavie
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Lawlordt said:
I dought it's coming thru the floor. Find the spot the pipes come up from under the trailer into the rig. Probably behind a panel in the corner of the kitchen cabinet like mine does. Follow the water pipes down from the faucet. Pull some drawers.
Prior member
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Something to try:
With the water turned on and it coming up through the floor, turn on the cold water first and while that has water running, see if the water coming through the floor lets up.
If the pipe has no change, shut off the cold and try the same thing with the hot water.
this might at least pin point if it is one of those pipes
If you are sure you have no way to get at the piping, you'll either have to cut the floor above or the covering underneath. I would go for the covering underneath, repair the pipe or fitting and then repatch the covering.
Let us know how it turns out
Jack L
With the water turned on and it coming up through the floor, turn on the cold water first and while that has water running, see if the water coming through the floor lets up.
If the pipe has no change, shut off the cold and try the same thing with the hot water.
this might at least pin point if it is one of those pipes
If you are sure you have no way to get at the piping, you'll either have to cut the floor above or the covering underneath. I would go for the covering underneath, repair the pipe or fitting and then repatch the covering.
Let us know how it turns out
Jack L
Kevin Means
Site Team
Another thing to check when NOT hooked up to city water, is - does your water pump cycle on and off on its own? It should not run until you open a spigot. If it's turning itself on and off every so often, the water pressure is bleeding down somewhere in the system - my bet is that it's near a kitchen pipe or fitting, as Gary said.
Kev
Kev
Nailed it! It was in fact the water heater tank that was leaking! I was able to flush out all the tanks and they were empty when we turned the city water back on we knew it had to be something around the kitchen sink, discovered the very well hidden water heater by removing drawers. Turned it off by turning the water flow knobs and turning off the fuse.
Is replacing the water heater tank a big problem/expense? Is a new water heater In general required to fix the problem or is it possible to just replace the tank? Any recommendations for repair service in the San Diego area? Thanks a lot for all your help!
Is replacing the water heater tank a big problem/expense? Is a new water heater In general required to fix the problem or is it possible to just replace the tank? Any recommendations for repair service in the San Diego area? Thanks a lot for all your help!
Kevin Means
Site Team
Glad you found the problem. I happen to live in Lakeside, just east of San Diego, and in the past, I've used Webbs RV in Lakeside (small Mom & Pop but good) and Ricks RV in El Cajon (Bigger operation and also good)
Kev
Kev
cavie
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Lawlordt said:
I knew it was not coming up thru the floor. See post #5. Yes you need to replace the whole unit. Amazon is your friend. About $350.00. Remove from the outside. Easy DIY project if your handy with tools. You said you removed the fuse. If electric you need to turn off the 120 volt circuit breaker also. fuse would be for the 12 volt control panel. Trun off the gas at the tanks and put a cap on the end of the gas line while you working.
Prior member
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Lawlordt said:
There are videos on U-tube that show how to replace it.
Jack L
Rene T
Site Team
You may not have to replace the tank. Can you see where the leak is? It may just be a fitting going into the tank. How old is the heater and do you live in an area where temps get down below freezing. Don't just replace it without trouble shooting the cause. Also, if you do find that the tank has a small crack in it, it can be welded. You'd need to talk to a welder to get a cost of weld repair versus buying a entire heater.
cavie
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Rene T said:
Would you weld a WH tank at home?? Why would you weld one in an RV. The problem is inside and is only gonna get worse. Welding is like putting bubble gum on it. Tt would have to come out and stripped of it's insulation in order to weld it.
Rene T
Site Team
cavie said:
I would have no problem with welding a tank at home providing it was a good welder and not some backyard DIY welder. If the tank has a minor crack from freezing and not internal corrosion, there's no reason why it can't be repaired. I had a compressor tank which developed a minor pinhole leak because of moisture and had it tack welded. I used it for another 15 + years with no issues. That pressure was 150 LBS.
You stated the problem is inside. Exactly what does that mean. I don't believe the OP said where the was coming from exactly.
cavie
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Rene T said:
I am not familiar with freezing cracks. I'm 69 years in Florida. Cracks here are caused by rust and corrosion from the inside. I can see you have not had the pleasure of experiencing Florida well water. LOL
Rene T
Site Team
cavie said:
I do as you can see in my signature. I just came back from FL after spending 7-1/2 months there. Then again, I drink the water and it's treated. This has been our 7th winter in FL.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
A new tank is in the 200-300 dollar range comes with (Atwood) new mounting hardware, new heat element (I changed mine for a smaller one) new relay and new TPR
YOu will need tin snips and a torch After dissassembly Take photos so you know how to reassemble) cut the metal rings (you will know what I'm talkign about and the front comes off
Heat the new rings to expand them and slip 'em over the places they go.
Reassemble.
YOu will need tin snips and a torch After dissassembly Take photos so you know how to reassemble) cut the metal rings (you will know what I'm talkign about and the front comes off
Heat the new rings to expand them and slip 'em over the places they go.
Reassemble.
cavie
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John From Detroit said:
OP has a Forrest River. Probably a Suburban WH. seems to be their go to brand.
