Confused...

[meaningful_meanderings]

So in conversations with a few different RV manufacturers, the sales people told me their product was not designed for temperatures below freezing; that's what I have to go on. I did see one that claimed it could handle a Wisconsin winter but was pricey. I've found a few that fit my specifications except they were three season. The idea with the dual axle is more support when off road in soft ground or sand (I like the the modular toy hauler designs.) My truck is a 2500 Cummins Diesel 4x4 with a modest lift (and I end up pulling someone out of being stuck in the sand almost everytime I go to the coast). I understand the difference between northern and southern winters; when I shop tent camping equipment it typically has a temperature rating so guess I was expecting similar ratings with a RV. (I've also discovered that as I get older the sleeping bag low temperature ratings may not be completely accurate. ) Down here in sunny Texas it can easily drop well below freezing at night and be rather nice in the daylight. I don't plan on wintering in Snag, Yukon but would like to be able to handle a few days below freezing should the situation present itself. Too, figure I'll need the extra insulation for Texas summers...

 

[JudyJB]

The problem with finding something "rated" as four-seasons is that there is no unbiased group doing such ratings. Each manufacturer can claim specific units as being "rated" as whatever, but it is very likely that they are doing the rating for themselves.

And, as we have all learned the hard way, a salesman at a dealer can tell you just about anything about a unit that they want to tell you. It will not be down in writing, and it will not be part of a warranty, so if all your pipes freeze one cold night, too bad.

On the other hand, I have used plastic film on my windows a couple of times, and my motorhome has some of the front furnace heat ducted to where the tank pulls are located, but I would not expect that ducting to really prevent much freezing.

And, by the way, other than a couple of very uncomfortable weeks in northern Ohio, the two coldest places I have ever stayed at was the clearly misnamed Furnace Creek in Death Valley and Las Vegas! Both places got down to about 20 degrees a couple of nights when I was in each. In Las Vegas, I got tired of my furnace not keeping me warm so I pulled out. When I put my slides in, ice fell off my slide awnings!!! That was at Boulder Beach along Lake Mead.

 

[John From Detroit]

I have been below zero a couple of times with my Class A and only two problems total cost to repair around 25 dollars. (Plus my time). and both of those preventable. had I known in advance it would get that cold. (I was expecting like +26 not -6)

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

From the last reply from the OP just about any "standard, if there is one" RV would service his needs. One preferably with at least double pane windows. But for short durations of a couple of days, maybe a week, many of us do ok with how our rigs come equipped. This is even easier if hooked up to utilities, especially with good electricity where a combo of a furnace and electric heaters can keep you cozy down into the mid 20's at night. If you have a separate water bay and a good electrical pedestal, you can add an extension cord and put a trouble light in with a 100 watt bulb, or a good halogen bulb that burns hot.

There have been other suggestions on this thread, and others on additional weatherizing steps someone can take for short-term winter camping. Trying to live in a "tin can" for an extended time is a whole different discussion.

 

[Kirk]

I did see one that claimed it could handle a Wisconsin winter but was pricey.

Adding things like dual pane windows and extra insulation to a stick house will increase the price just the same as it does for an RV. To get more, you must pay more in pretty much anything that we shop for. With an RV there is not only an increase in cost but also in weight. The lightest weight material that is used for RV framework is aluminum and it is also the poorest thing for insulation value. Steel is better and steel with a thermal break is best and it is also far more expensive to build. Another thing that you are dealing with is the size of RV that you want is mostly sold to customers who only use the RV seasonally or for short periods. You can find more quality RVs in the larger sized and they will also be significantly higher priced. Manufacturers build to what sells best. Even when shopping for used, higher quality RVs will be much more expensive, will weigh more, and most of them will be larger.

The idea with the dual axle is more support when off road in soft ground or sand (I like the the modular toy hauler designs.)

In the RV industry, the main reason that some RVs have more than one axel is the weight of the RV requires it. In some cases the RV builder can save money by using 2 axels of low weight capacity rather than one and still save money. As the RVs get heavier, they are much more likely to have 2 axels and some of the largest ones have 3 axels but to my knowledge, no RV manufacturer designs any model with the ability to travel over soft ground in mind. Also, trailer tires are usually designed to operate at high inflation pressures, which makes them less friendly to soft surfaces.

Too, figure I'll need the extra insulation for Texas summers...

I have traveled in RVs ranging from a tent-top or pop-up to a fairly large class A motorhome and have used them in temperatures ranging from lows near or just below 0° to high temperatures as low as the mid 20°'s to as high aa 105° or so. If you want to be really comfortable in either extreme, you first of all need to have an RV of higher quality and that also means on of the higher priced models. The RV industry builds different models to different quality/price ranges to attract buyers with different budgets and needs. As you increase in quality/price the sizes also tend to increase because very few buyers will pay what it costs to build high quality in the smaller RVs and most of the quality factors also increase the weight as well. Things like dual pane windows, no exposed plumbing, heater wet area, better insulation and most other such factors will increase both the weight and the price per foot of length. Slides also add to the cost and weight.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

Can't wait to see what the OP decides on. Many good suggestions on The Forum from the experts that know!

 

[meaningful_meanderings]

Can't wait to see what the OP decides on. Many good suggestions on The Forum from the experts that know!

Me too; lot of good information here. I'm going to have to fall back and rethink things a bit..