Hot water heater leak

[Bsholl]

Hey group,

I woke up this morning to a steam bath coming out of the outside of my RV.

Thankfully nothing leaked inside. But the hot water heater has a leak but appeared to still be functioning.

The HWH is original to the vehicle. I've never tried repairing one of these things but in your opinion, would you just order a new unit instead of repair?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

 

[Kirk]

I've never tried repairing one of these things but in your opinion, would you just order a new unit instead of repair?

You can get a replacement tank but if you pay an RV tech to replace i you probably will pay as much or more than to just get a new one.

 

[Rene T]

Exactly where is the leak?
It may be just a bad pressure relief valve which can be easily replaced.
We need more information.

 

[Old_Crow]

Might even be the flexible line that connects the water heater to the coach plumbing. I had one of those let go completely while we were sitting out under the awning having coffee one morning.

 

[Rene T]

Might even be the flexible line that connects the water heater to the coach plumbing. I had one of those let go completely while we were sitting out under the awning having coffee one morning.

Wally, the OP said it was outside the RV

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

First task is to identify the source of the leak. Then decide whether to repair or replace. If it actually is a hole in the tank wall, then replace is probably the the better choice (unless you can DIY), but odds are the leak is the relief valve or a fitting at the hot water outlet. Both are readily repairable.

 

[jackiemac]

We had water coming out of ours yesterday.

It was the pressure relief valve, this leaks if there isn't enough air in the top of tank to allow expansion when water heats up. There was a simple procedure to fix problem if that's what yours is too.

Photo 1 shows drip and 2 valve.

I think Steve shut off water, opened hot tap closest to heater then depressurised valve (lots of water came out), then reversed and its now dry.

 

[Rene T]

Many times the problem is crap in the valve. Release the pressure then open the valve and let it snap shut. Doing this 5 or 6 times could possibly make it seal again.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Many times the problem is crap in the valve. Release the pressure then open the valve and let it snap shut. Doing this 5 or 6 times could possibly make it seal again.

^^^ That ^^^

I installed a new 40-gallon WH in my laundry room last year and I had to do that several times over a couple months before it stopped leaking.

 

[Bsholl]

I don't know much about the components of water heaters but it's not the pressure relief valve.

I notated where the leak is coming from on the outside. Inside, there is not leak in the camper.

Can anyone advise?

 

[Bsholl]

Exactly where is the leak?
It may be just a bad pressure relief valve which can be easily replaced.
We need more information.

Not the valve. I just got around to posting some more pictures.

Would love to hear your thoughts.

 

[CharlesinGA]

The pressure relief is directly above where you indicate the water is. The flame tube thru the tank is way to heavy to corrode thru, compared to the shell. Are you sure its not dripping from the relief valve?

Condensation from the burning propane?

Charles

 

[Bsholl]

The pressure relief is directly above where you indicate the water is. The flame tube thru the tank is way to heavy to corrode thru, compared to the shell. Are you sure its not dripping from the relief valve?

Condensation from the burning propane?

Charles

The water is coming from the tube that the propane flame is burning into. So definitely not the pressure relief valve.

Do you have any other ideas?

 

[CharlesinGA]

Does it appear only when the water is cold, or you still have a noticable flow after the water heats up? The reason I ask is that propane makes a lot of water vapor when burning and if the water in the tank is cold, you will be condensing the water, but when it heats up it will quit.

Charles

 

[Bsholl]

Does it appear only when the water is cold, or you still have a noticable flow after the water heats up? The reason I ask is that propane makes a lot of water vapor when burning and if the water in the tank is cold, you will be condensing the water, but when it heats up it will quit.

Charles

It starts to leak out as soon as water is circulating through the heater.

 

[silversport]

Looks like the tank has gone south. For me not worth the time or energy to repair. When one hole eats in the tank there are many more waiting to happen. Replace the unit is my advice.

 

[Bsholl]

Looks like the tank has gone south. For me not worth the time or energy to repair. When one hole eats in the tank there are many more waiting to happen. Replace the unit is my advice.

That's what I was afraid of. I think the only component behind there is the tank, so I figured it was that.

I'll work on limping along with this while I wait for a new one to come in.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Just be aware you cannot get that water heater any longer. The current Dometic is a different size and shape and requires an adapter kit and special outside door. If this is a combined gas/electric unit where you have two switches inside the RV, one for GAS and one for Elecrric, Suburban makes a replacement that fits in the opening. SAW6DEL is the model It must have the L on the end. You don't say what year, or model Atwood it is, if you can determine that, post it up. I'm not seeing the data tag in your pics, is should be on the RH vertical surface to the right of the burner.

If this is an older model with a gas switch (12v DC) and a large snap switch (120v AC) then you need the SAW6DE (but no L on the end)

The letter A means Advantage, which is what Suburban calls their models designed to replace the old Atwoods. Dometic left everyone out in the cold on this. The letter L on the end means you have two small 12v DC rocker switches, most likely in a panel and you control it with 12v DC. The non L model is for older models that had 120v AC going directly from a house type snap switch to the water heater and no other switch.

Charles

 

[Bsholl]

Just be aware you cannot get that water heater any longer. The current Dometic is a different size and shape and requires an adapter kit and special outside door. If this is a combined gas/electric unit where you have two switches inside the RV, one for GAS and one for Elecrric, Suburban makes a replacement that fits in the opening. SAW6DEL is the model It must have the L on the end. You don't say what year, or model Atwood it is, if you can determine that, post it up. I'm not seeing the data tag in your pics, is should be on the RH vertical surface to the right of the burner.

If this is an older model with a gas switch (12v DC) and a large snap switch (120v AC) then you need the SAW6DE (but no L on the end)

The letter A means Advantage, which is what Suburban calls their models designed to replace the old Atwoods. Dometic left everyone out in the cold on this. The letter L on the end means you have two small 12v DC rocker switches, most likely in a panel and you control it with 12v DC. The non L model is for older models that had 120v AC going directly from a house type snap switch to the water heater and no other switch.

Charles

Charles, you are the absolute best. That was my next question. My first attempt at looking for a new one was not great. I can take a look at the model number and let you know later when it's light outside.

 

[Rene T]

I don’t know the answer to this question but is there some type of gasket between the burner tube and the tank?