Issue with parking brake (sensor?)

[Praise Bus]

Thank you Gary & Kirk. Y'all have been extremely helpful. The problem is I think I know just enough to get me in trouble. I was assuming that the power coming in to the dash/push/pull switch sensor (white wire) should go out of the black wire when the sensor is in park. If not it's not sending the signal to the next area which I am assuming is under the front hood. Just my thoughts. If it helps the chassis is a powerglide.

 

[Praise Bus]

Okay, please chime in here. I went to the auto parts store and bought an inline fuse to use as a jumper/tester. I unplugged the dash sensor which is the one on the pull/push parking brake. When i jumped it the beeping and brake light blinking stopped. My next thing i did was push the button for the slide outs and the leveling, both worked. With this now I am pretty sure it is a bad sensor. Next step will be getting it out and replacing. Again, please chime in with any thoughts.

 

[Kirk]

Next step will be getting it out and replacing. Again, please chime in with any thoughts.

All that I can say is that with your limited experience you need to be very careful. I suggest that in the near future you would be wise to get yourself a moderately priced multimeter and follow the instructions that come with it to learn how to use it. By use of a volt/ohm meter you could pretty easily determine if that diagnosis is accurate.

 

[Praise Bus]

Kirk,
Thank you. I was trying to use some common sense, however when it comes to electronics, common sense goes out the window. I was using the fuse as my safety, however with delicate items this can still cause a problem. Maybe I was lucky here. Is there a particular meter you recommend?

 

[Kirk]

I have a preference for meters by Fluke and have recommended the Fluke 101 to several satisfied users but in all honesty, there are cheaper meters that would do everything that you need. Amazon has several that would work for $20 - $30. The main reason that I stay with equipment from Fluke is their reputation for meters that last a long time and retain their accuracy. I have a Fluke 77 that was new in 1999 and has been tested for accuracy as recently as 4 months ago and it continues to be within tolerances. It is more meter than most people need, so I don't suggest spending that much.

 

[Praise Bus]

Can you tell what is the best place to purchase the sensor from? Was doing a search online but not finding this part.

 

[Praise Bus]

Gary & Kirk,
The part I am looking for is a Honeywell air pressure switch.
77023 20 1131. I came up with a 77021 but not 77023. I believe the end numbers would be a manufactured date. Thank you.

 

[Kirk]

The part I am looking for

Have you tried any of the major auto-parts houses?

 

[Praise Bus]

Yes. I ordered it from Tiffin. I thought it would have been a common part for a truck supply but was not getting a good match. Also, I did order a Fluke Multimeter. I should have had this years ago. Thank you for all your help.

 

[Praise Bus]

Kirk & Gary,
Thank you for your guidance and advice. I received the new pressure switch and tested the old and new one with my new Fluke multimeter. The old one was not working and after installing the new one everything is working properly. Thank y’all again.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Glad to hear it's fixed. And thanks for letting us know about it.

 

[Kirk]

Thank you for letting us know! Much of what we are able to do to help other RV owners is due to the results of experiences like this thread. We get a lot of satisfaction from figuring out what a problem is and each time someone lets us now how it turns out, they too are helping others and so you are now part of the team for the next person!