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Mitch52656

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2019
Posts
55
Hi. Got several questions here. We are looking at a 2018 Holiday Rambler class A Vacationer 35K gas. 15K miles. Coming from years of 5th wheels. Is it easier to back a motor home? Our truck is 24 ft and trailer is 42 ft. Is a dolly suitable versus the direct hookup to the tow viechle? I think the motorhome is built well from what I see so far.
Thanks in advance.
 
What outher gas coaches have you looked at? Why gas?
I think it is easier to back a motorhome but that is what I drive the most.
I like 4 down towing over dolly towing and I have done both. The dolly is more of a problem because if you have a back in site you have to un load the car and then un hook the dolly and move it before you can back in. It doesn't sound to bad till it is raining or the ground is slick and you have to push the dolly up hill. With 4 down you unhook the car and drive it out of the way. It takes about 4-5 min.
Bill
 
What outher gas coaches have you looked at? Why gas?
I think it is easier to back a motorhome but that is what I drive the most.
I like 4 down towing over dolly towing and I have done both. The dolly is more of a problem because if you have a back in site you have to un load the car and then un hook the dolly and move it before you can back in. It doesn't sound to bad till it is raining or the ground is slick and you have to push the dolly up hill. With 4 down you unhook the car and drive it out of the way. It takes about 4-5 min.
Bill
I have looked at Tiffian and Thor. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks
 
What outher gas coaches have you looked at? Why gas?
I think it is easier to back a motorhome but that is what I drive the most.
I like 4 down towing over dolly towing and I have done both. The dolly is more of a problem because if you have a back in site you have to un load the car and then un hook the dolly and move it before you can back in. It doesn't sound to bad till it is raining or the ground is slick and you have to push the dolly up hill. With 4 down you unhook the car and drive it out of the way. It takes about 4-5 min.
Bill
I have looked at Tiffian and Thor. Any opinions would be appreciated. Tha
 
I went from a 5th wheel to a 34ft Class A and usually tow a 20ft box trailer. No issues backing up at all.
We love our MH and plan to keep it for a long, long time.
 
Backing a MH without a trailer becomes dead simple. With a standard trailer, not too bad (I've done it a lot with my motorcycle trailer) as long as you have a rear facing camera. If you have experience backing a TT or 5W this will be a snap.

With a dolly or 4-down toad it is basically impossible.

I prefer dolly tow because I change my cars enough to make that a thing and I use my dolly for more than RV-ing.

If you buy a capable enough rig and backing is important you might consider a car trailer/hauler (4-up) - Again storing a dolly at a campsite can be a thing, storing a flatbed a much bigger thing.
 
I have looked at Tiffian and Thor. Any opinions would be appreciated. Tha
Hear is something to look at. Used 2018 Newmar Bay Star Sport | Mustang | Mustang | #11688CC | Dallas | National Indoor RV Centers
Friends just upgraded from a nice tow behind camper to a Bay Star. They both commented on how nice it was now that there was enough room that both of them could stand up and walk around at the same time. They decided to go celebrate and spend a few weeks down on the coast near Rockport TX.
Also look at Entegra coaches.
Bill
 
I have looked at Tiffian and Thor. Any opinions would be appreciated.
Tiffin has a good rep for customer service and well-designed coaches, whereas Thor Motorcoach is known more as a "value" producer. However, Thor Industries also owns some other major brands as subsidiaries, including high end Entegra and Tiffin, so don't get confused between Thor Motorcoach brand and other Thor-owned companies.

I'd add Newmar & Winnebago to your potential purchase list - both build darn good coaches, whether gas or diesel. And while I'm not a big Forest River fan in general, I'd look at the upper end of the Georgetown line too.

Rev Group's Holiday & Bounder lines of gas coaches don't seem to be the good values they used to be in before 2009, but that's based on a quick walkthrough rather than actual experience.

I encourage you to look at the high end of each manufacturers line-up and go old enough to stay in your budget range. The entry-level brands tend to have a lot of short cuts taken under the covers where newbie buyers won't notice until they've had them awhile. They skimp on the chassis, the wiring & plumbing, use cheaper materials, etc. Whereas the age of a used motorhome is almost irrelevant since most are lightly used and low mileage compared to cars. Condition is far more important than model-year of the motorhome.
 
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As Gary posted the 2018 Vacationer is a nice coach, but can't be confused with the earlier versions of Holiday Ramblers up to 2009. Shame they're not around anymore.

However, if you have done your due diligence on checking the rig out and the price is right you should be getting a darn nice coach.

I've towed with a dolly for close to 15 years. I am on my second Master Tow dolly and they would be the one I would always recommend. I don't think it takes me any longer to hook up my dolly and load the car onto it (DW Barb drives on, I direct) and strap it down than when I've watched folks with four down set-ups get their toad ready to roll. I initially went the dolly route for two main reasons. One, the car we had at the time, an FWD RAV4 was not flat towable and we didn't want to buy a new car that was. Second, my first MT Dolly I bought used for $925(?) and that was my cash outlay. To tow flat we would've had to buy a different vehicle, buy and pay to have installed a tow plate package, buy a tow bar and accessories package, buy and deal with an auxiliary braking system, then hook everything up and go, for a tune of between $3K-$4K.

As far as storing at a campsite, when we arrive at a CG and check in, we'll pull over to the side where there is room to offload our car. My wife will go and find our campsite while I unhook the safety chains, surge brake safety cable, and unplug the simple 4-prong electrical connection. When I pull up to the campsite my DW has things scoped out where to place the dolly and I'll pull up a little past the campsite drive (so to speak) and easily un-couple the dolly and roll it to the spot at the campsite. In all of our years camping and using a dolly I don't think I've encountered even five times that I may have been on a hill that made "parking" the dolly difficult. With no car on a dolly, you can back them up if there is an opposite drive to pull into and then back into your site, although with dollies being short going a long distance back isn't the easiest without them cocking. Worse case, DW helps push the dolly onto the campsite.
 
Using a dolly means you have to register, yet another, trailer. Disconnect it and store it somewhere when camping. Not a terrible amount of work - but after a day of travel, it might just be tiresome to disconnect the car, disconnect the dolly, push/pull the dolly to someplace where you're allowed to store it while at the campground...

We like to flat tow - DW and I are a great team and complete the job, plus walk-around lights/hookup check in under ten minutes.
 
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24 years ago I rented a dolly from U-Haul to tow my daughter's 1988 Honda Civic 550 miles. Never again. The 1st problem was the Honda had a short wheelbase and not much ground clearance so it scraped somewhere underneath when driving the car up on the dolly. Strapping the car down to the dolly and checking the straps at every gas stop was a pain. It had some sway going down the highway. IMO raising the front of the car up on the dolly with the air flow going under the car was lifting the car. I had to keep my speed down to 55 so it turned a 10 hour drive into 11. Tried to back up at a gas station and the front wheels on the Honda locked all the way right. Then stayed locked when I tried to pull forward. Then scraped again driving it off the dolly. VS flat towing our current car is a breeze. 5 minute setup with no handling problems at 65 mph.
 
Tiffin has a good rep for customer service and well-designed coaches, whereas Thor Motorcoach is known more as a "value" producer. However, Thor Industries also owns some other major brands as subsidiaries, including high end Entegra and Tiffin, so don't get confused between Thor Motorcoach brand and other Thor-owned companies.

I'd add Newmar & Winnebago to your potential purchase list - both build darn good coaches, whether gas or diesel. And while I'm not a big Forest River fan in general, I'd look at the upper end of the Georgetown line too.

Rev Group's Holiday & Bounder lines of gas coaches don't seem to be the good values they used to be in before 2009, but that's based on a quick walkthrough rather than actual experience.

I encourage you to look at the high end of each manufacturers line-up and go old enough to stay in your budget range. The entry-level brands tend to have a lot of short cuts taken under the covers where newbie buyers won't notice until they've had them awhile. They skimp on the chassis, the wiring & plumbing, use cheaper materials, etc. Whereas the age of a used motorhome is almost irrelevant since most are lightly used and low mileage compared to cars. Condition is far more important than model-year of the motorhome.
Thank you Gary. I appreciate your input. I am a bit concerned about the noise in the cockpit from a gas motor that others have commented on in gas versus diesel threads. Thoughts on tis?
 
Thank you Gary. I appreciate your input. I am a bit concerned about the noise in the cockpit from a gas motor that others have commented on in gas versus diesel threads. Thoughts on tis?
Tiffin has a good rep for customer service and well-designed coaches, whereas Thor Motorcoach is known more as a "value" producer. However, Thor Industries also owns some other major brands as subsidiaries, including high end Entegra and Tiffin, so don't get confused between Thor Motorcoach brand and other Thor-owned companies.

I'd add Newmar & Winnebago to your potential purchase list - both build darn good coaches, whether gas or diesel. And while I'm not a big Forest River fan in general, I'd look at the upper end of the Georgetown line too.

Rev Group's Holiday & Bounder lines of gas coaches don't seem to be the good values they used to be in before 2009, but that's based on a quick walkthrough rather than actual experience.

I encourage you to look at the high end of each manufacturers line-up and go old enough to stay in your budget range. The entry-level brands tend to have a lot of short cuts taken under the covers where newbie buyers won't notice until they've had them awhile. They skimp on the chassis, the wiring & plumbing, use cheaper materials, etc. Whereas the age of a used motorhome is almost irrelevant since most are lightly used and low mileage compared to cars. Condition is far more important than model-year of the motorhome.
We have a $80k to $100k budget.
 
Hear is something to look at. Used 2018 Newmar Bay Star Sport | Mustang | Mustang | #11688CC | Dallas | National Indoor RV Centers
Friends just upgraded from a nice tow behind camper to a Bay Star. They both commented on how nice it was now that there was enough room that both of them could stand up and walk around at the same time. They decided to go celebrate and spend a few weeks down on the coast near Rockport TX.
Also look at Entegra coaches.
Bill
Thanks Bill. That is a very nice looking coach.
 
Thank you Gary. I appreciate your input. I am a bit concerned about the noise in the cockpit from a gas motor that others have commented on in gas versus diesel threads. Thoughts on tis?

With your budget I would get a rear engine pusher.

Admittedly my coach is old but having that 454 under a box between the seats is really noticeable. I insulated and recovered the box but the noise was still there.

Not to mention even after insulating and fixing the box gasket there was always noticeable heat leaking in. Like a full time foot warmer or heated cabin floors. Not good in 100* summer temps.
 
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