Plumbers paradise

[the road tribe]

I just had a fun day working out a small leak on the line exiting my hot water tank. It started as a small drip from a plastic tee. I replaced the tee as well as the 90 that came off the tank with a brass sharkbite. I added Teflon tape before connecting back to the tank. Once I turned on the water I found a leak coming from the Teflon tape. It needed pipe dope as well.
Now I pretty much had to start from scratch and cut further back just to get my connection undone. I was expecting to pay an arm and a leg for a complete new set up when I found a sharkbite disconnect, what a great tool! So I made all the new connections and $80 later we have no leaks!

My question is can I add some sort of deflection for water so in case I spring another leak in this area, I don't have to worry about it running into my fusebox? This is a pretty tight area and I still have a couple more plastic fittings in the way back. I was thinking of wedging a flexible plastic cutting board between the water and propane lines (black tubes)

By the way this is a contraption a friend of mine set up for me when the bypass valve stopped working. It is so I can winterize my hot water lines without filling my hot water tank. He does not believe in blowing out the lines only with air.

 

[Kirk]

I am wondering what your RV is?

 

[Kirk]

My question is can I add some sort of deflection for water so in case I spring another leak in this area, I don't have to worry about it running into my fusebox?

I would just make some sort of cover from a heavy weight plastic sheeting to protect the electrical panel. That way you can fit it around things as needed. You could also add some type of water leak detector just to be sure.

By the way this is a contraption a friend of mine set up for me when the bypass valve stopped working.

I have found that the modern PEX plumbing is much more vibration resistant than the the copper plumbing that was common when we first began RVing.

 

[the road tribe]

I am wondering what your RV is?

2010 Keystone Cougar 298BHS

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Good suggestions from Kirk. We can't see your fuse box or whatever else is in the water path, but with a bit of creativity you can surely at least protect the fuses from drips. And a leak detector makes for good insurance.

 

[the road tribe]

I would just make some sort of cover from a heavy weight plastic sheeting to protect the electrical panel. That way you can fit it around things as needed. You could also add some type of water leak detector just to be sure.

I have found that the modern PEX plumbing is much more vibration resistant than the the copper plumbing that was common when we first began RVing.

Good idea. Plus I can tape the plastic sheeting to protect my electrical.

Good suggestions from Kirk. We can't see your fuse box or whatever else is in the water path, but with a bit of creativity you can surely at least protect the fuses from drips. And a leak detector makes for good insurance.

The fuse box is less than an inch away from the two plastic 90s which would require a contortionist to replace. The only thing I am concerned with plastic sheeting is it may reduce the airflow through my fuse box. Can they overheat?

 

[DouglasB12]

Using the Shark Bite fittings is great, but they can be a pain if you want to remove them. You can use something like a channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench loosely around the water line and use that to push against the shark bite fitting. That way you get even pressure on the release ring and also have a larger surface area to get your hands onto.

 

[the road tribe]

Using the Shark Bite fittings is great, but they can be a pain if you want to remove them. You can use something like a channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench loosely around the water line and use that to push against the shark bite fitting. That way you get even pressure on the release ring and also have a larger surface area to get your hands onto.

It's a pretty tight space, that's why I am so glad I found this tool!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The fuse box is less than an inch away from the two plastic 90s which would require a contortionist to replace. The only thing I am concerned with plastic sheeting is it may reduce the airflow through my fuse box. Can they overheat?

If it's only the fuses in a bus bar, the only way to overheat would be a faulty connection somewhere inside. But if the box includes the converter/charger, then yes it needs air flow for cooling.

But you don't need to wrap it up in plastic - just stick a piece of rigid plastic above it so the water drips off the edge instead of into the box.