Propane generator hose

[rgnprof]

I am thinking of buying a backup dual fuel generator. I have a quick disconnect that tee's off already installed on my motorhome right after the regulator. What hose do I need to attach to a propane generator? The generator appears to just have a flared threaded connection. I don't need another regulator on this hose do I?

Ryan

 

[John From Detroit]

Depending on the generator that "T" may not provide enough fuel...
Many generators want liquid propane and have their own regulator.
That said Many =not= all. (means does not equal)

So check the generator's needs before you lay your credit/debit card down.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

That generator needs a direct connection to high (tank) pressure propane - no regulator in-between. The generator has its own regulator, designed to meet its pressure and flow requirements. That means you need to add a Tee between your RV's LP tanks and the regulator that supplies low pressure gas to the RV appliances.

Be aware that generators suck a lot of propane at moderate to heavy wattage loads. When the generator brochure says it runs 10+ hours on a 20# LP bottle, they are talking about only a few watts of output.

 

[rgnprof]

Hi Gary,

This is the generator I purchased- seems to have good reviews and running on propane seems to be efficient enough. Again, I realize that my mileage may vary...

Pulsar GD400BN

I am confused about the generator itself having a built in regulator as this Pulsar generator comes with a propane hose with regulator to attach to a regular 20lb propane (I called the company and watched a few unboxing YouTube videos). It seems that my RV propane regulator would serve the same purpose - right?

 

[Ernie n Tara]

Not necessarily; motors use lot of propane as compared to appliances and stndard regulators are very low pressure. You could just try it on your standard regulator first.

Ernie

 

[Kirk]

It seems that my RV propane regulator would serve the same purpose - right?

The same purpose, right but the pressure it supplies is not the same with all regulators. The RV propane regulator supplies 11" of water column, which is 0.397003 psi. I suspect that the regulator that came with the generator supplies a much higher pressure. Most dual fuel generators that I'm familiar with require 3 psi.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Hi Gary,

This is the generator I purchased- seems to have good reviews and running on propane seems to be efficient enough. Again, I realize that my mileage may vary...

Pulsar GD400BN

I am confused about the generator itself having a built in regulator as this Pulsar generator comes with a propane hose with regulator to attach to a regular 20lb propane (I called the company and watched a few unboxing YouTube videos). It seems that my RV propane regulator would serve the same purpose - right?

A "dual fuel" generator has the LP gas regulator as part of the generator's propane adapter, whereas a propane-only generator typically has it as a direct component of the generator. The difference is academic - the generator provides the Lp gas regulator and no other regulator can be involved.

If you view the video in the link you provided, you will see the generator's LP regulator on the propane hose that came with the generator.

 

[CharlesinGA]

First off, the Pulsar generator you linked to is NOT a 4000 watt generator, no way, no how. Generators in the 3500 to 4000 watt range weigh in at around 100+ lbs. This is a 47 lb generator. Most likely they are calling it 4000 watt IF PAIRED WITH ANOTHER LIKE GENERATOR. This is about the size and weight of a 2000 to 2200 watt generator. Note that this is a 145cc motor. A Honda 2200 uses a 121cc motor. A Harbor Freight Predator 3500 (3000 continuous) has a 212cc motor.

With that out of the way, propane generators, use TWO regulators. The one at the end of the hose, at the tanks of the RV, whatever, is the main regulator, and inside is a second, very large diaphragm regulator (know as a demand regulator) that is, from what I can tell, designed to only allow LP to flow to the motor when the motor vacuum is drawing it, hence "demand".

My travel buddy has a Honda 2000i that he installed a Hutch Mountain LP conversion on and it runs just fine off the RV's external "BBQ grill" port but has the secondary regulator as an in the hose device right at the generator.

This is the Hutch Mountain setup.

Even my ONAN 2500LP generator built into my trailer has an internal regulator in addition to the 11 inch WC gas supply of the standard regulator at the tanks.

My limited experience, and research tells me it will run just fine off the RV's "BBQ grill" port by removing the hose and its regulator and installing a hose connecting to the RV's quick disconnect, provided it is regulated gas pressure from the RV's main regulator.

As far as fuel consumption, I'll get to that when I locate my numbers, but you can be assured that the standard RV regulator you have, most likely about 150000 to 175000 BTU/hr is more than sufficient.

Charles

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I don't know how they get 5.5 hp and 3200W (continuous) out of that little 145cc engine, but the rating is explicitly for ONE Pulsar, not two in parallel. I have to assume it is working hard, so maybe there is a long term cost in wear & tear.

My Firman 3242 has the same watt ratings (gas & LP) but is about 25% larger in dimensions and weighs 90 lbs. It has a few more features, though, e.g. electric start, 12v outlet, USP port, and a larger gasoline tank.

 

[rgnprof]

Well, I can't say much as cleared up for me, but I appreciate the responses. As far as the PULSAR specs, I've read EVERYTHING I could find and bought it for all the reasons that you claim it can't be...ha! Light, 4000 watts, etc...
The only somewhat applicable Youtube videos that I could find shows the Champion dual fuel genny being adapted to connect directly to the quick connect, but it has a much bigger 2 part regulator that can be taken apart. They recommend using the bigger part to prevent the propane leaking when the unit isn't running and isn't then drawing a vacuum. The bigger part looks like the same thing in Charles' diagram above - attached to the mounting plate.

What began as what I thought would be a simple problem, has me even more confused. I think I was initially planning on just doing what Charles mentioned above - just buying a 12-20 ft propane hose - one end with a quick connect to hook up to my motorhome and the other end just a flared threaded connection to directly screw in to the generator propane connection.

Not sure if that'll work now or not...

 

[OldWEB]

Then contact Pulsar directly
[email protected] 866-591-8921

But remember propane has less bang than gasoline. From their specs:
4000 peak watts / 3200 running watts on gasoline
3700 peak watts / 3000 running watts on propane

 

[rgnprof]

I did - not much help! All they could tell me was the propane hose was included...

 

[CharlesinGA]

The only somewhat applicable Youtube videos that I could find shows the Champion dual fuel genny being adapted to connect directly to the quick connect, but it has a much bigger 2 part regulator that can be taken apart. They recommend using the bigger part to prevent the propane leaking when the unit isn't running and isn't then drawing a vacuum. The bigger part looks like the same thing in Charles' diagram above - attached to the mounting plate.

I think you will find the larger demand regulator MAY be built inside the housing, as that is the way dual fuel ones are often done, especially the larger ones. The Champion 4500 watt dual fuel, for example has the aux regulator (the demand unit) inside the housing, see this video clip.

Champion dual fuel generator internal view

Charles

 

[Ray-IN]

Hi Gary,

This is the generator I purchased- seems to have good reviews and running on propane seems to be efficient enough. Again, I realize that my mileage may vary...

Pulsar GD400BN

I am confused about the generator itself having a built in regulator as this Pulsar generator comes with a propane hose with regulator to attach to a regular 20lb propane (I called the company and watched a few unboxing YouTube videos). It seems that my RV propane regulator would serve the same purpose - right?

I bought the same Pulsar model, it does have an internal LP regulator, the hose that came with the inverter unit does not have a pressure regulator. I just attached the hose to my 20# grill cylinder, pulled the rope and the 3rd pull it started. I ran it for about 6 hrs, changed oil, restarted it and ran another 3 hrs on that same grill cylinder.

Just as I was switching to a full cylinder REMC restored power to our house.
The output on LP is 3KW, which powered both our deep=freezes, both refrigerators, lighting and the TV.
I doubt I'll ever add gasoline to the tank, LP is much more convenient IMO.

 

[rgnprof]

Thank you Ray - happy to hear from another owner! Sounds like it should then run on the quick connect hose from my motorhome???

This is the hose I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RLX426X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ryan

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It's really simple.

1. Use the propane hose that came with the generator. If you need more length, buy an extension hose with matching fittings.
2. Hook it direct to a propane tank, with no other regulator intervening.

 

[Ray-IN]

FWIW, It's been my experience those quick-connect fittings always leak a bit whether connected to a hose or not. I agree with Gary, use screw together fittings. Years ago there was a huge recall of Chinese made LP hoses for the RV industry, which made me wary of them ever since. There was another recall of Pearl River brand LP hoses from China.

 

[CharlesinGA]

A more elegant solution would be to install a nipple on the generator (and find something to cap it with when not in use) and then get a HOSE with a male nipple on one end and a female coupling on the other, then the hose is not hard connected to the generator (which is cumbersome) and the hose can be used for other purposes.

Charles

 

[Tulecreeper]

A more elegant solution would be to install a nipple on the generator (and find something to cap it with when not in use) and then get a HOSE with a male nipple on one end and a female coupling on the other, then the hose is not hard connected to the generator (which is cumbersome) and the hose can be used for other purposes.

Charles

Make sure the fittings you get match. There are multiple different styles/sizes to choose from - Automotive, Industrial, ARO, etc.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Make sure the fittings you get match. There are multiple different styles/sizes to choose from - Automotive, Industrial, ARO, etc.

View attachment 168539

Propane fittings are none of these, they are similar looking but do not interchange. I'm not sure who sets the standards, (It appears that ANSI Z21.XX is the standard that covers Sockets and Plugs for LP and Natural Gas, certification to the standard is done by CSA or other organizations) but they are a standard design that if advertised for low pressure propane, will work. They have a thinner wall and larger opening thru them. Always brass.

If you want a real, made to the standards, meets all the specs including markings and such, go with one made by MB Sturgis or Marshall Excelsior.

Female couplers will have a miniature ball valve incorporated in them.

Curiously, my trailer had a genuine MB Sturgis coupler on it, and the China made nipple on the hose would not fit. It was two or three thousandths larger than what it should have been and would not go in. I had a China made coupler and replaced the MB Sturgis with it. Here is what I found when I removed the one Bigfoot had installed from the factory. Yes, they used the proper yellow thread tape on the threads.



Here is what a new, China made coupler looks like.

Charles