I use an American Dolly with the car in Park, and the wheel locked with the seatbelt since it doesn't lock by itself when removing the key. TV is FW, and cannot be 4 down. The dolly does not have safety chains or a way to place them. I use basket straps with no problem all over the country.
Using a 2 wheel tow dolly
- Thread starter MikeFromMesa
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Most models of "import cars" aren't imported by ship - the assembly plants are right here in the USA, Mexico or Canada. Key components may be imported, but these days it's no longer so likely to ship an entire vehicle except by truck (car hauler).
Toyotas, for example, are assembled in Mississippi, Kentucky, Indiana, plus Mexico. Toyota also has engine plants in Texas, West Virginia and Alabama.
Joezeppy
Well-known member
Put the car in park, parking brake off, jack up the rear, and see if you can turn the rear wheels - that will solve one question. I think you will find that they turn.
MikeFromMesa
Well-known member
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- Jul 13, 2014
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Joezeppy said:
I have been telling myself to do just that as soon as it stops raining and the weather clears up a bit.
Interestingly enough I was back at the Honda dealer yesterday getting some work done and asked a different advisor the same question. His first response was "Neutral", but I then asked him if Park locked the rear wheels and he said "No". Why, then, I asked him should I not put it in Park instead of Neutral, and he thought for a moment and then said either would be OK.
Perhaps they are just trying to be careful so as to not generate a law suit?
LarsMac
Well-known member
MikeFromMesa said:
The point of the chains is more to keep the car from wandering off on its own, should the tire straps fail. If that happens, it is going to be messy, but with chains, you have an opportunity to contain the mess, rather than to share it with other motorists.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
That, plus that they simply aren't trained with answers to that question or anything similar. Anything they say beyond what is specified in the owner manual or a factory service manual is guesswork, and often an uneducated guess at that. Plus it is guesswork that could get them in trouble, legally or with their bosses. Service advisors are (for the most part) trained in formally-established service procedures and "up-selling" extra services to the customers. Few of them are master-certified technicians.
X
X-Roughneck
Guest
Read thru thread, I have Stehl Tow Dolly we bought in August. Have used it on a 2500 mile trip from TX to Badlands. SD. I have built in Surge brake on mine so I can meet supplemental braking some USA states require.
The only thing I would add is, Stehl Manual States to lock Steering.
I used 2 techniques tightening down the tires and "dimple" the tires one way on trip north, which was to drive up until tires were dimpled against stop plate, then tighten the crap out of them with ratchet and straps. This method the straps came slightly upright when traveling north over the Oklahoma stretch of rough road on way to Lamar Colorado. Note, not dangerously loose though.
The 2nd (Better Method I read about from RV old timer which we used on entire return trip)pull up car within 1/2 inch of wheel Stop on drive up ramp. Put vehicle in Park to immobilize roll. Attach straps just taking out slack. Now get back in car and place in neutral, no brake. Now tighten ratchet straps. This method will allow slight movement forward, rolling forward to stop and dimple with power of ratchet. Gets a tighter grip, and in my unscientific test traveling over same stretch of road on our return trip straps never loosened and stayed tight! You need to be within 1/2 inch or you won't get roll/dimple tire response you are looking for.
Driving over that Oklahoma Stretch of road is ROUGH and Bumpy.
I also purchased tire staps on Amazon which has 2 hooks and Cradles the tire on both side as opposed to using the single hook that came with Dolly. The dual hooks, to me give me more peace of mind that car front tires are more secure.
I have Mazda, and on lower A arm, I fabricated a 3/16 inch cable With clamps looped on each end. Where I can feed thru A arm. Then loop each safety chain back to itself. Creating small cables to loop thru in concert with chain makes it fast to connect. Note..leave a little sag to allow for wheel turns, but keep loose enough that tires will stay in wheel troughs in case of strap failure.
Over all. Dollies are not too bad. I would have opted for 4 down tow. But our one car family was not willing to take a beating on trade value.
The only thing I would add is, Stehl Manual States to lock Steering.
I used 2 techniques tightening down the tires and "dimple" the tires one way on trip north, which was to drive up until tires were dimpled against stop plate, then tighten the crap out of them with ratchet and straps. This method the straps came slightly upright when traveling north over the Oklahoma stretch of rough road on way to Lamar Colorado. Note, not dangerously loose though.
The 2nd (Better Method I read about from RV old timer which we used on entire return trip)pull up car within 1/2 inch of wheel Stop on drive up ramp. Put vehicle in Park to immobilize roll. Attach straps just taking out slack. Now get back in car and place in neutral, no brake. Now tighten ratchet straps. This method will allow slight movement forward, rolling forward to stop and dimple with power of ratchet. Gets a tighter grip, and in my unscientific test traveling over same stretch of road on our return trip straps never loosened and stayed tight! You need to be within 1/2 inch or you won't get roll/dimple tire response you are looking for.
Driving over that Oklahoma Stretch of road is ROUGH and Bumpy.
I also purchased tire staps on Amazon which has 2 hooks and Cradles the tire on both side as opposed to using the single hook that came with Dolly. The dual hooks, to me give me more peace of mind that car front tires are more secure.
I have Mazda, and on lower A arm, I fabricated a 3/16 inch cable With clamps looped on each end. Where I can feed thru A arm. Then loop each safety chain back to itself. Creating small cables to loop thru in concert with chain makes it fast to connect. Note..leave a little sag to allow for wheel turns, but keep loose enough that tires will stay in wheel troughs in case of strap failure.
Over all. Dollies are not too bad. I would have opted for 4 down tow. But our one car family was not willing to take a beating on trade value.
X
X-Roughneck
Guest
X-Roughneck said:
PancakeBill
Well-known member
Take a beating on trade value? If it was set to be towed 4-down? Where did you hear this?
X
X-Roughneck
Guest
My Mazda, CX 5 is 2018, FWD which must be dolly towed or damage to transmission will occur on my CX5. We had purchased car 6 months before we got in Let's buy a RV mindset. Had I knew I was buying RV, would have purchased a 4 down capable car. The beating I was referring to was from Car dealership trade and losing a few grand on car.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I will give one caution about Tow Dollies.... Now it appears the O/P here has a good dolly.
But last winter I was sitting here doing my internet thing when I heard a WHOMP.... Though "What the" and stepped out to investigate
The folks leaving had driven the car up onto the dolly and right OVER the stops. (Very low stops) I was able to get it so a tow truck was able to easily pull 'em back onto the trailer but... IT was a lot of work (Would have cost 'em a whole lot more had I not been there with a back seat full of plank and assorted jacks).
The caution is make sure the stop is able to STOP the car's forward movement.
I have seen speed bumps better than the stops on that dolly (And I've seen some with SERIOUS stops)
But last winter I was sitting here doing my internet thing when I heard a WHOMP.... Though "What the" and stepped out to investigate
The folks leaving had driven the car up onto the dolly and right OVER the stops. (Very low stops) I was able to get it so a tow truck was able to easily pull 'em back onto the trailer but... IT was a lot of work (Would have cost 'em a whole lot more had I not been there with a back seat full of plank and assorted jacks).
The caution is make sure the stop is able to STOP the car's forward movement.
I have seen speed bumps better than the stops on that dolly (And I've seen some with SERIOUS stops)
Old_Crow
Well-known member
Don't know about the dolly, but you're sure right about that stretch of hwy 287.
We tend to come across 412 through OK instead of I-40 between Arkansas and New Mexico. A couple of years ago we cut up through Lamar and spent the night at Two Buttes reservoir, just south of Lamar. The dirt road getting back to the camping area at the reservoir was in better shape than the paved highway. For a while there, I thought all my overhead cabinets were going to come off the walls of the RV.
We tend to come across 412 through OK instead of I-40 between Arkansas and New Mexico. A couple of years ago we cut up through Lamar and spent the night at Two Buttes reservoir, just south of Lamar. The dirt road getting back to the camping area at the reservoir was in better shape than the paved highway. For a while there, I thought all my overhead cabinets were going to come off the walls of the RV.
Time to bring this thread back to life.
I bought a Roadmaster RM3477 tow dolly to tow a 2019 Honda Fit behind my 2018 Coachman BH Freelander. Going through the manual for the Honda, I find this little item:
NOTICE
Improper towing such as towing behind a
motorhome or other motor vehicle can damage the
transmission.
Does this mean ANY towing with a MH would violate the warranty of the car? Would it give the insurance company a reason to deny a claim should (gawd forbid) I have an accident while towing the car behind the Freelander?
Has anyone had experience with this MH/dolly/car configuration?
Oh, it does seem that the steering wheel locks when you put the car in park and lock the car door. There was some question about this years ago.
I bought a Roadmaster RM3477 tow dolly to tow a 2019 Honda Fit behind my 2018 Coachman BH Freelander. Going through the manual for the Honda, I find this little item:
NOTICE
Improper towing such as towing behind a
motorhome or other motor vehicle can damage the
transmission.
Does this mean ANY towing with a MH would violate the warranty of the car? Would it give the insurance company a reason to deny a claim should (gawd forbid) I have an accident while towing the car behind the Freelander?
Has anyone had experience with this MH/dolly/car configuration?
Oh, it does seem that the steering wheel locks when you put the car in park and lock the car door. There was some question about this years ago.
I suspect they're referencing flat towing. If a vehicle is front wheel drive or rear wheel drive with a drive shaft disconnect and the front wheels are on the tow dolly it's all good. I both lock my steering wheel and run the seat belt through the wheel as a back up. I also when first getting underway stop and retighten the straps after the first 1/4 mile and then after the first 5 mi., after that they're usually all good, just do a walk around when you stop and give the straps a push to ensure they're tight.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
On my towed's the first I used an Axle lock. This is a device that replaces one of the half axles on a front wheel drive. In the "Unlocked" position the wheel on that side spins freely (like a rear wheel) the other wheel spins the differential and first axel but it's spinning free and oil bathed so no harm.
On the 2nd I added a lube pump. to circulate trans fluid and thus no problems.
Rear wheel there is a drive shaft disconnect.. Like the axle lock.
Also on two wheel dolly you put the drive wheels on the thing. And as the other poster said Be sure to re-tighten after a short distance and re-check every time you stop for other than a red light or stop sign.
On the 2nd I added a lube pump. to circulate trans fluid and thus no problems.
Rear wheel there is a drive shaft disconnect.. Like the axle lock.
Also on two wheel dolly you put the drive wheels on the thing. And as the other poster said Be sure to re-tighten after a short distance and re-check every time you stop for other than a red light or stop sign.
