WDH Comparison

[Tulecreeper]

Let us say you have a 31-foot TT with an actual weight of 8500 pounds. For a pull-behind, it's a beefy one, with the full 4-season package, and you've tossed in some extra equipment to make life more comfortable (keeping within your GVWR of 9000 pounds, of course). Your towing capacity is 15,500 pounds, and your tow vehicle weighs 7500 pounds, including people, gear, and hitch weight. If you had the choice between the following 3 WDH's, which one would you choose?

- Husky Round Bar 31423
- Curt Round Bar 17063
- Blue Ox SwayPro BXW1500

 

[CharlesinGA]

Do us a favor and go to your screen name on the top right in the red bar, click on it, and then go the menu list on the left side and select signature and create a signature with RV (if you have it yet) and describe your tow vehicle, being sure to specify that its a Tradesman model with a 6.4L GAS motor. This will help alot with discussions.

***********

I'm partial to the Blue Ox SP.

The Husky has NO sway control unless you add a small side ball or two and brackets on the trailer for the flat sway control friction devices.

The Curt is the same way, no built in sway control, you just have the friction bars, which are at least provided with it, unlike the Husky where it is optional.

The BOSP is not a friction hitch. It uses rather short chain lengths and an unusual camber to the pivot points of the bar sockets. This provides for the hitch to physically try to keep the trailer straight behind the tow vehicle. If the trailer moves off center, the stress on the chains and bars increases to try to pull the trailer back straight.

Another good hitch for a heavy trailer is a Reese Dual cam. Lot of work to install and set up, but works well, same thing, attempting to force the trailer back straight when the rollers move out of the detents.

Now, don't get me wrong, the friction bars work, but you have to become adept at judging how tight to set them, and "they say" when backing you need to stop and loosen the friction handle, plus water on the friction bar makes it less effective, but this would be true of any friction hitch, such as the Equalizer, Blue Ox Track Pro, and many others.

Do you want a hitch that uses friction to dampen the sway when it happens, or do you want a hitch that forces the trailer to stay straight behind the tow vehicle? The Hensley and Pro Pride being the ultimate in this category.

Charles

 

[Domo]

I'd go with the Harbor Freight WDH for $239. Throw in their anti-sway bar for another $40.

I used one for years - no issues - had the brackets welded on instead of using the tightened bolt to grab the trailer frame - just because it seemed smarter.

Can't see spending hundred$ more for the same basic function and design as the others.

As I said - used it for years, cross-country at least two times. Sold it when we moved up to a class A.

Oh, and no issue with backing and no need to loosen the anti-sway - if it can move when going forward, it can move when going backwards. Not rocket science IMO.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Do us a favor and go to your screen name on the top right in the red bar, click on it, and then go the menu list on the left side and select signature and create a signature with RV (if you have it yet) and describe your tow vehicle, being sure to specify that its a Tradesman model with a 6.4L GAS motor. This will help alot with discussions.

Why would I need to do that? I know what tow vehicle I have, and what capabilities it has. I gave you the parameters that are important. You will just have to assume I actually know what I have.

 

[Old_Crow]

Why would I need to do that? I know what tow vehicle I have, and what capabilities it has. I gave you the parameters that are important. You will just have to assume I actually know what I have.

We know that you know what you have, but there's a lot of members here and we're all getting older. We can't always remember what you have, and a lot of times that information is vital to the answers you receive. By creating a signature with your information, you keep from having to type it every time you ask a question. The signature isn't really for you, it's for us.

 

[DutchmenSport]

I would not go with any of them. I did tow a 10,000 pound (plus) 35 foot travel trailer with a 3500 HD Chevy diesel dually long bed crew cab and I used the Equal-i-zer 4 point weight distribution hitch. After set up, it's extremely easy to use, easy to hook up the bars (as long as truck and trailer are jacked high enough) and compared to other systems, not so horribly expensive.

If I went back to a travel trailer, I'd get another Equal-i-zer 4 point weight distribution hitch system (14,000 / 1400) without any hesitation or thought. I had a Reese with the bars that had chains and the Equal-i-zer was so much easier and in my opinion, better.

 

[Tulecreeper]

We know that you know what you have, but there's a lot of members here and we're all getting older. We can't always remember what you have, and a lot of times that information is vital to the answers you receive. By creating a signature with your information, you keep from having to type it every time you ask a question. The signature isn't really for you, it's for us.

You're right, and I apologize for the way I worded that last night. It was late and I was tired.

This is a fictional TT. Let's say a Coachmen Freedom Express UL 274RKS (Forest River)

• Dry Wt: 6638
• Cargo Cap: 2362​
• GVWR: 9000​
• Dry Hitch Wt: 824​
• Lgth: 31’ 10”​
• Service: 50A​

Freedom Express Ultra Lite 274RKS Travel Trailers by Coachmen RV

Freedom Express Ultra Lite Travel Trailers Freedom Express Ultra Lite Travel Trailers deliver ultra-lite luxury combined with top selling floorplans in an affordable, value packed travel trailer, designed to be towed by today’s midsize SUVs and half-ton vehicles. Freedom Express conventional and...

coachmenrv.com

The tow vehicle is a RAM 2500 Tradesman, 2x4, Reg Cab, 8' bed, 6.4L Hemi

• GVWR: 10,000
• Cargo Cap: 3913
• Tow Cap: 15,540
• GCWR: 22,000

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I'm really negative on the friction-bar type sway dampening devices, so I would not choose either of the Curt or Husky models you listed. Curt makes an good integrated sway control hitch they call the TruTrack and Husky has one called Centerline. Those would be my choices.

 

[Tulecreeper]

OK, I should have added that I'm looking for a WDH with anti-sway. Although those three WDH's all by themselves also provide at least some anti-sway protection, I guess I was asking which of the three provided the best of both worlds.

I have towed pretty much everything in my life. I had a Class A CDL when I retired and have hauled heavy equipment, but I never had to tow anything with a WDH. I know what they are physically designed to do, and how they do it, but that's all I know about them.

 

[1blue78]

have a look at the Reese Straight line - mine works great

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Yeap, Reese Straightline is another good choice.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

OK, I should have added that I'm looking for a WDH with anti-sway. Although those three WDH's all by themselves also provide at least some anti-sway protection, I guess I was asking which of the three provided the best of both worlds.

Of the 3 named, the Blue Ox is the best choice for combined WDH & Sway management, but you didn't choose comparable models from Curt & Husky so it's an apples vs oranges comparison. That's why I suggested alternative models from Curt & Husky.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Of the 3 named, the Blue Ox is the best choice for combined WDH & Sway management, but you didn't choose comparable models from Curt & Husky so it's an apples vs oranges comparison. That's why I suggested alternative models from Curt & Husky.

Thanks, that's why I'm asking. I have no knowledge of WDH's.

 

[Ray-IN]

Let us say you have a 31-foot TT with an actual weight of 8500 pounds. For a pull-behind, it's a beefy one, with the full 4-season package, and you've tossed in some extra equipment to make life more comfortable (keeping within your GVWR of 9000 pounds, of course). Your towing capacity is 15,500 pounds, and your tow vehicle weighs 7500 pounds, including people, gear, and hitch weight. If you had the choice between the following 3 WDH's, which one would you choose?

- Husky Round Bar 31423
- Curt Round Bar 17063
- Blue Ox SwayPro BXW1500

Is that 8500# the gross weight as ready to drive away on a camping trip? If that is the empty weight it is useless; unless that is how you plan to travel and camp.
A 9000# trailer will have very close to a 1,080# tongue weight.
This online towing calculator will accurately match your tow vehicle and trailer.
Forgot to address sway control. The basic method of controlling/stopping trailer sway is with the manual level on the electric brake controller.
You maintain your speed while manually, gently applying trailer brakes, this action pulls the truck and trailer back into a straight line. This method has been used by experienced campers for many decades. My uncle showed me how in the late 1950's, with his 1954 Ford pickup and 22' Shasta TT.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Is that 8500# the gross weight as ready to drive away on a camping trip? If that is the empty weight it is useless; unless that is how you plan to travel and camp.
A 9000# trailer will have very close to a 1,080# tongue weight.
This online towing calculator will accurately match your tow vehicle and trailer.
Forgot to address sway control. The basic method of controlling/stopping trailer sway is with the manual level on the electric brake controller.
You maintain your speed while manually, gently applying trailer brakes, this action pulls the truck and trailer back into a straight line. This method has been used by experienced campers for many decades. My uncle showed me how in the late 1950's, with his 1954 Ford pickup and 22' Shasta TT.

As I stated in my OP - 8500 pounds actual weight, 9000 pounds GVWR. I know how to tow...I'm simply looking for comparisons between different WDH/sway control systems.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Thanks, that's why I'm asking. I have no knowledge of WDH's.

My recommendation is based on my distrust/dislike of friction bar type sway dampeners. Not everyone here agrees with me on that. However, I haven't had anyone tell me that the built-in (leverage) type isn't effective or easy to employ.

That said, the real "anti-sway" protection comes from assuring the proper tongue weight. Get that right (10+ to 15% range) and you will have no worries.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Since I started reading, and commenting in several of these hitch discussions, I have in the past few months done quite a bit of thinking about various hitches and how they work. I posted in another thread about how hitches that had anti-sway characteristics built into them fell into two different categories, which is friction damping, and physical force.

The friction damping works to either dampen sway that is happening, or to prevent it, by having so much friction, that the sway won't move the trailer very far from being aligned with the tow vehicle. The issue here is the friction works both ways, if it does move out of alignment it takes an equal amount of energy to get it back in alignment.

Friction hitches that use the weight distribution bars sliding in their brackets on the trailer tongue as a principal means of friction, are subject to either being ineffective if there is not enough friction due to a mis-adjustment of the hitch or a mis-selection of the proper hitch bars. I have seen several photos of trailers that the tongues have failed, most likely due to the amount of force the weight bars are exerting on the trailer's tongue.

If you select a hitch that has a higher rating than the actual tongue weight, the bars will be stiffer, and in the process of adjusting the bars for proper weight (re-)distribution to the front wheels of the tow vehicle (and the trailer's axles) you will not have enough friction.

If you use bars of a lower weight rating, it will take an adjustment to re-distribute the weight that is more than the bar is designed for, and you will have enough, if not too much friction.

WARNING! Rant ON!

The Equal-i-zer hitch in particular also uses friction on the pivoting sockets the bars mount into. Along with friction, it uses grease. The equalizer hitch is a maintenance hog. you must "Never tow with loose socket bolts. Tighten socket bolts to a minimum of 60 ft-lbs torque before each towing session." and "All nuts and bolts should be checked before each towing day and be tightened or replaced if necessary." The only way to properly check the bolts would be to torque them with a torque wrench to assure they are properly tightened.

The weight bars of a Equal-i-zer hitch are not interchangeable between tongue weights, you must buy an entire new hitch (except for the shank) should you determine that you need to go up or down in tongue weight categories, either due to a mistake made during purchase, or a change of trailers, or well, for any other reason. Also note that "Arms for the 12K and 14K models are side specific. They are notched slightly off-center and should be inserted into the socket with the notch on the inside, and with the label facing outward."

OK, Rant OFF...... This post is not intended as a critique of the Equalizer...........

Basically, using a friction hitch requires an extraordinary amount of attention to detail and care to assure it is properly adjusted.

Charles

 

[Tulecreeper]

Thank you for the input. Every little bit helps.