Atwood Motor Products Water Heater Plastic Drain Plug?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

oldryder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2017
Posts
573
Location
Avon MN
what size is the Water Heater Plastic Drain Plug? none of my sockets quite fit, probably because it's a bit chewed up from using pliers so I'd replace it if I can find where to get it.

thx to anyone taking the time to offer advice.
 
The Atwood water heater has a 1/2" drain plug and requires a 15/16" socket to remove it. They recommend replacing them each time that they are removed as they can break. I used to replace mine every year or two. You can get them from Amazon or from most home supply stores.
 
a little late to the conversation, it seems, but I'll toss this out there anyway... I recently replaced mine with this valve
it's only been installed maybe 1-1/2 months but so far so good???
 
blw2; you might find this galvanic action chart interesting, it states SST and aluminum contact is not recommended.
If I read the chart right, it’s not recommended for type 410 SS. Other types SS the chances of reaction is slightly higher. Maybe a heavy layer of Teflon tape will slow down any reaction.

That tool is a handy tool to keep on hand and it’s cheap
 
Last edited:
I replaced the plastic plug for a NPT brass plug, which cost me about $4 and lasts a lifetime. I've had it installed for about 5 years and haven't had any issues
 
A brass valve is a relatively low risk substitute for the nylon plug, but why have any risk at all? Atwood chose to use a nylon plug for a technical reason (no galvanic corrosion). It's not just because its cheaper. Besides, if you don't damage the nylon plug using pliers or an ill-fitting wrench, it should last a decade.
 
it's only been installed maybe 1-1/2 months but so far so good???
With the Atwood aluminum tank you will have galvanic corrosion and in a year or two, you probably won't be able to remove it at all. Vendors will sell you most anything but that doesn't mean that it is a good idea.
Besides, if you don't damage the nylon plug using pliers or an ill-fitting wrench, it should last a decade.
After having had an Atwood water heater drain plug get brittle and break off when it was being removed, I went back to replacing mine every 2 years or if it showed any damage at all. They are not expensive, and removing the threaded part once the head has broken off was a real learning experience. I spend most of two days getting the remaining part of that broken plug out, without damaging the tank threads.
 
Common CPVC plugs make a suitable substitute for the more expensive Atwood plugs. I bought two for about a dollar 5 or 6 years ago, and I'm still using the first one. I keep the second one inside the water heater door as insurance that I won't need it.
 
a little late to the conversation, it seems, but I'll toss this out there anyway... I recently replaced mine with this valve
Amazon.com
Atwood screwed a brass TP valve into the aluminum.
From Amazon description of the valve:
  • QUALITY | An all-metal, stainless steel construction means this valve is rust resistant and long lasting
 
A brass valve is a relatively low risk substitute for the nylon plug, but why have any risk at all? Atwood chose to use a nylon plug for a technical reason (no galvanic corrosion). It's not just because its cheaper. Besides, if you don't damage the nylon plug using pliers or an ill-fitting wrench, it should last a decade.
And only use a 6 point socket. A 12 point will destroy the plug.
 
Rene T is right. Ya' think that seller knows what this rod fits? Look at what else they sell: Amazon.com : Eau

Atwood, now owned by Dometic uses an anodized aluminum tank that does not corrode as long as the interior surface coating is not damaged.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
133,257
Posts
1,407,670
Members
138,827
Latest member
Mjsracing
Back
Top Bottom