Best flat tow vehicles for class C

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Monarch4me

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May 30, 2019
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Manteca Calif
So we went out for our first trip in our Thor 24ft fourwinds class C, got all set up and thought how nice it would be to have a small vehicle to make a store run, so asking what would be a be your advise, not looking for anything new, just a grocery getter and do i need a braking system? thanks
 
We’re happy with our Honda CR-V. Were happy with our Saturn Vue before that. They’re both on the lighter side so will easily work with any towing and hitch capacities, but pay attention to your overall weight. 2014 is the last year CR-V’s we’re flat towable and 2009 was last year Vue’s we’re made. You’ll want an auxiliary brake system. There are several brands.  I like our Stay-in-Play Duo a lot more than our previous one (mostly for ease of setup), but I imagine folks will be along who will recommend others.
My bride will only drive an automatic. Your choices will be vastly greater if a manual tranny is an option.
 
It really depends on how old you find acceptable, luxury level, and price range.  Adding base plates, braking system, tail light wiring, etc. will cost you at least $1,000 with DIY install and buying a lightly used relatively new braking system, new and pro install will run $2,500+.

Personally if I were looking for a light basic, grocery getter, and did not mind having a manual transmission, I would take a strong hard look at the Chevy Spark,  I spent a week living with one as a rental car about 4 years ago and was impressed with it.  They are light, cheap even when new, and have a surprising amount of space.  The only down side is 0-60 in eventually, I suspect my motorhome could beat it in a drag race, or at least tie it.
 
Ford four wheel drive Ranger is a light vehicle also, 2005 to 2011.
 
In my opinion there is not going to be much observable difference between a really light (2600 lb) vehicle and a somewhat heavier one (3300 lbs). That gives you some choice of small SUVs, crossovers and sedans, so you can pick one that suits your needs and style preferences.  "Towable" or not depends on the model year and sometimes the drivetrain, so you have to be rather specific in most cases.

Taking year 2008 as an example, some light weight choices might be:  Chevy HHR & Cobalt (or Sonic in later years), Colorado/Canyon/Ranger pick-ups, Honda CRV.

You can view all 29 years of Motorhome Magazine's Dinghy Tow Guides and they include curb weight.
http://www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/

And plenty of helpful towing info at:  http://www.motorhome.com/category/dinghy-towing/
 
If it were me, I would find a Jeep Wrangler TJ.  They were made from 1997-2006.  I towed one as a toad for several years and it weighed in under 3300, depending on which top I had on.  They are easy to tow flat and hook up, and you get the bonus of some fun when you get there.

Just watch for frame rust that they had an issue with on the tubular frames for those that spent time fording rivers or lived in the salty road areas.
 
http://www.remcotowing.com/Towing/Store.php 


Remco will tell you about any vehicle...if it's towable 4 down or how to make it towable.


I used to pull a 1991 Miata that was about 2,400lb.  Held two grocery bags in the trunk. 
 
We have towed a Honda CRV but now have a Chevy Sonic. It is 1000lbs lighter and has increase our MPG by 1.5, automatic and room for 4 adults.
 
I got lucky and found a 2010 manual transmission Ford Escape with 50,000 miles on it.  I can carry stuff on top as well as fill up most of the interior when towing.

Took me over a year to find any thing worthy of flat towing
 
I second the Honda CRV. We towed a 2004 for 7 years and had no problems at all. I purchased most of my towing equipment on EBay at a discounted price. Tow bar, baseplate, even the Brake Buddy brake supplement.


Bill
 
Our son recently purchased a 2005 Subaru Outback with manual transmission that is already set up with a base plate to tow behind his class C. It has lived in a no salt zone as it is rust free and in great shape.
 
The weight of the toad is mostly of interest only when towing in hill country, cause dragging the extra weight up a hill uses fuel.  Weight has very little effect on level roads, since it is only a minor factor in tire rolling resistance.  Wide or aggressive tread tires is probably a bigger factor, but owners rarely consider that.  The other major factor that affects mpg is toad wind resistance, but that can be tricky. Obviously a larger toad with more frontal area is going to have an effect, but the way air flows around the coach and strikes the toad (or not) is potentially just as important. Sometimes the shape or aerodynamics of the coach play a significant role in towing mpg.

This is one of those things that one can easily get bogged down in, "overthinking" the effects of factors that are often trivial.
 
I've been looking at the jeep tj i see a lot of them for sale around 5 to 7k range but all seem to have high millage like 120-180k range is that alot for a jeep?
 
I've got a TJ with around 140k on it.  Still runs great.  The YJ I sold to buy the TJ had 289k on it and was still going strong.  That 4.0l straight six is almost impossible to kill.
 
A TJ in running condition is surely worth at least $5k and probably more. Used Jeeps of any age & mileage are in demand among the offroad crowd and others who think any Jeep is just plain "cool".
 

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