Easier Sewer Hose Connection

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JudyJB

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Jul 6, 2010
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Traveling the TransCan Hwy to Banff & CA Rockies.
I am getting old, but obviously I am not the only one in this situation. Over the last couple of years, my left shoulder has been stiff and painful to use. I checked with an orthopedic surgeon and he offered my a replacement shoulder, but that would require almost a year of not being able to use it properly, so I turned him down as I did not want to quit traveling.

My sewer hose connection is in an outside compartment. In order to hook up the hose, you have to pull it up through a hole at the bottom of the compartment, and then twist it onto the interior plastic connector. I do not have large hands, so it requires me to sit on a stool or bend over substantially, and then reach into the compartment and twist the hose to the connector so that all four "hooks" are attached. (You all know what happens if only one or two of these are not connected. If you don't know, let's just say you will have a memorable cleanup job to do.) It is getting harder and harder for me to reach in and twist the hose with two hands.

Has anyone found a sort of snap connector that could be used with only one hand? I know the hose would need some modification as well, but this seems like something a lot of us could use.
 
Our Landau originally had a similar sewer hose connection that required feeding the hose through a hole in the compartment. I didn't like that setup, so I modified it using readily available parts. I added a third "master" valve" to the outlet, followed by a 45 degree clear extension that brought the hookup point outside of the compartment. As others have mentioned, I also use the Camco wrench shown to tighten or loosen the connection. The third valve serves a couple of purposes. After dumping, I can close the third valve and open the grey valve to back flush the black tank before closing the grey valve and opening the third valve again to dump the flush water followed by the remaining grey water to flush the hose.

2015-08-10 09.58.40.jpg
 
An easier method is to fabricate a short section of hose that remains connected to the MH fitting which is dropped through the hole enabling the connection to the main hose. I hope I explained it well enough.

A 4 foot section should be long enough to drop through the hole and to the ground where you can easily twist a main hose connection to it. You can attach a longer section if you would like also. There are times when I remove mine to flush out but it depends on the conditions and how and what is being dumped. My shorty hose is about 6 feet long and I rarely need to remove it.
 
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Our Landau originally had a similar sewer hose connection that required feeding the hose through a hole in the compartment. I didn't like that setup, so I modified it using readily available parts. I added a third "master" valve" to the outlet, followed by a 45 degree clear extension that brought the hookup point outside of the compartment. As others have mentioned, I also use the Camco wrench shown to tighten or loosen the connection. The third valve serves a couple of purposes. After dumping, I can close the third valve and open the grey valve to back flush the black tank before closing the grey valve and opening the third valve again to dump the flush water followed by the remaining grey water to flush the hose.

View attachment 175240
This is pretty close to what I wanted to suggest, but seeing what Judy has would make the suggestions more detailed.

An easier method is to fabricate a short section of hose that remains connected to the MH fitting which is dropped through the hole enabling the connection to the main hose. I hope I explained it well enough.

A 4 foot section should be long enough to drop through the hole and to the ground where you can easily twist a main hose connection to it. You can attach a longer section if you would like also. There are times when I remove mine to flush out but it depends on the conditions and how and what is being dumped. My shorty hose is about 6 feet long and I rarely need to remove it.
You need a short hose with male and female ends and a cap to fit on the male end. Then you just shove the short hose back up inside and close the hole. My Winnebago had a hole that was too small for the Rhino hose to pass thru. I enlarged the hose and made a plywood close out and varnished it for water protection.

Charles
 
On my trailer, you have to do everything by FEEL. You squat down and find the connection and remove the cap and connect the hose, all by feel, the only way to see it and manipulate the hose at the same time is to put down a plastic bag or something clean and disposable and lay down on the ground. I have the trailer marked to make it easier to locate the dump tube. Yes you can see the dump fitting in the pic, but if you get close enough, squatting down to reach it, you are facing the side of the trailer. The Brother label maker has come in handy for me many times.

The clear extension gets the hose connection beyond the handles and frame, where you can easily get a grip on the hose collar. It is harder plastic with stiffer, deeper detents, and stays in place when you remove the hose or cap. The quick disconnect makes it easy to hook up the hose to it, and yes, I have a plastic cap that fits over it to keep out the mud daubers.

Charles
Dump station improvements 05 labeling to assist in locating connections.jpgDump station improvements 04 3 inch Clear extension installed.jpgDump station improvements 02 cap removed from QD.jpgDump station improvements 03 stub hose and valve installed for flushing.jpg
 
I didn't like that setup, so I modified it using readily available parts
I like your modification too. Bring your water lines in front of the panel is great. Do not know what is left behind the panel but now most of your plumbing is visual. I know what removing the panel requires and it is a pita. Dan gives you (y). On our Georgie Boy the water pump is behind the panel. With contortion can get to it without removing panel but very difficult.

Jennifer
 

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