New to RVing Help Assistance

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

stevenffc

New member
Joined
Aug 9, 2024
Posts
3
Location
Indiana
I plan to retire next year, purchase a travel trailer and go. I was looking to purchase a 3/4 ton truck but it wouldn’t fit in the garage (height) so couldn’t bring myself to spend that much money to have it sit outside. Was also following some forums about being able to use 1/2 ton trucks pulling newer lightweight trailers so ended up purchasing a Silverado Z71 LTZ 4x4. It shows 9400 trailer weighting. Is it possible to pull 28-30 ft trailer with bare weight under 6,000 with this truck without white knuckling the whole way? Not opposed to adding air lift and anti sway hitch (if they work) and since retired will not be in a hurry so 55 or so is acceptable. Thanks to all who can provide guidance
 
Keep in mind that the "bare weight," I think you mean empty weight or "dry" weight, is a useless figure when figuring towing needs. You must figure with the max allowed gross weight unless you'll never put clothes, water, pots and pans, kitchen utensils, food, tools, toiletries and many other things in it, thus leaving it empty for towing. Also keeping in mind that RVs tend to get more loaded over time, as you think of more "necessities" for your trips.

In addition, remember that your towing capacity also decreases as you go past a tank of gas and a driver in the truck. So figure the people and supplies in the truck (including the hitch, weight distributing (WDH) I hope) along with the max load in the trailer. I think you'll be unpleasantly surprised.
 
What Larry N. said also you mention you are willing to add a anti sway hitch, you should do this under any circumstances. Also, mentioned your willingness to add air lift, you should know any suspension upgrades you might do while improving the ride does not change your towing capability. With regards to what Larry N. said about factoring in the weight of yourself, any passengers and gear in truck as well as cargo, water, propane etc in the trailer, the manufacturer will post the dry weight and also the maximum load. This is the weight to be concerned with because it represents the weight of the trailer plus gear.
 
In addition to the weight issues already mentioned, keep in mind that the length of the truck as compared to the length of the trailer are also of safety concern. For the first 110" of wheelbase, this allows you 20' of trailer. For each additional 4" of wheelbase, this gets you 1' more of trailer. While this isn't an absolute, it does give you a good general way to consider things. Also, the heavier the tow vehicle is, the less it will be influenced by the RV that you tow. Remember that a travel trailer has lots of surface area in front to cause wind drag and on each side to catch any sidewind.
 
You might consider getting an ultralight travel trailer in the 6,000 to 7,500 lb. gross weight (gvwr).
 
Why do you want a huge 28-30 feet trailer? We have a small and light weight Casita trailer that has all the amenities one needs for very comfortable camping...except the huge interior square footage...which one doesn’t need if average size and one goes to the outdoors to be in the outdoors...

Casita trailer amenities include: Air Conditioning; Bathroom with sink, shower and toilet (which we upgraded to a ceramic toilet with heated bidet seat); Ceiling Fan, Furnace; Tank Hot Water Heater (6 gallons, which we upgraded to propane/electric tankless); Kitchen with microwave oven, refrigerator (3 cubic feet), sink and propane stove (which we upgraded to propane/induction); 30A 120VAC Shore Power (which we upgraded to 50A 120/240VAC) and Shore Potable Water Hookup; Sleeping Area (King, Full or Double Single Berth sleeping configurations as desired) and Holding Tanks for Potable (25 gallons), Gray (32 gallons) and Black (15 gallons) water.

Casita trailers are constructed of marine grade fiberglass (a single layer shell design that doesn’t trap moisture in a cavity which then shortens the lifetime of most other RVs including other fiberglass RVs), have a strong steel frame (instead of an aluminum frame having a cyclic fatigue failure limited life and subject to galvanic and salted road corrosion failure), are aerodynamic (an Airstream trailer shape but much easier to economically repair if ever needed), are very lightweight (2,280 pounds empty and under 3,500 pounds fully loaded) and are very small (17 feet), making Casita trailers a dream to tow and enable doing real camping in beautiful locations that many larger RVs can NOT do.

So Casita Travel Trailer has created the perfect travel trailer for loving couples who enjoy closeness and they have been doing so since 1981 and nearly all of these original Casita trailers are still on the road today. A new Casita trailer must be picked up in Rice Texas (i.e., Casita only does factory direct sales and has no dealerships that would take more of your money) and they have a long lead order time before pickup as demand for them is extremely high as they are reasonably priced, last forever and can be easily resold for significantly more than their purchase price.
 
Last edited:
I have a 2015 Silverado Z71 with a 143 inch wheelbase with the HD tow package. I pull a 28 toy hauler that weighs just under 6000lbs with 850 lb tongue weight. Even with the bike and everything else, I'm sill under 8000lbs.
I use a Equalizer 4 hitch. It has built in sway control. I did install load range E tires and Timbrens on the rear.
No problems pulling my trailer even with the bike inside.
 
I plan to retire next year, purchase a travel trailer and go. I was looking to purchase a 3/4 ton truck but it wouldn’t fit in the garage (height) so couldn’t bring myself to spend that much money to have it sit outside. Was also following some forums about being able to use 1/2 ton trucks pulling newer lightweight trailers so ended up purchasing a Silverado Z71 LTZ 4x4. It shows 9400 trailer weighting. Is it possible to pull 28-30 ft trailer with bare weight under 6,000 with this truck without white knuckling the whole way? Not opposed to adding air lift and anti sway hitch (if they work) and since retired will not be in a hurry so 55 or so is acceptable. Thanks to all who can provide guidance
The short answer is Yes, probably.

The longer answer...
  • You need to use the trailer GVWR (max loaded weight) as your yardstick because bare (empty) weight is meaningless. By the time you leave the dealership, that weight is already obsolete. Best to assume the trailer will be fully loaded. Don't kid yourself about how little you think your stuff weighs.
  • Overall length is also a concern, but 28 ft is probably ok. 30 ft may be pushing the limits too far.
  • Most pickups have enough load-carrying capacity (payload) that they won't need a weight distributing hitch (WDH) but you need to get the specific numbers for your truck. It will be on a placard on the door jam. Recognize that payload is reduced by the amount of weight carried in/on the truck. Including the driver.
  • Trailer sway is caused by poor trailer balance, not excessive weight. A travel trailer must have 10%-12% of its total weight carried on the hitch (called tongue weight). It should never sway if you maintain that balance.
 
My responses in red.

I plan to retire next year, purchase a travel trailer and go. I was looking to purchase a 3/4 ton truck but it wouldn’t fit in the garage (height) so couldn’t bring myself to spend that much money to have it sit outside. Was also following some forums about being able to use 1/2 ton trucks pulling newer lightweight trailers so ended up purchasing a Silverado Z71 LTZ 4x4. Probably a poor choice as this is most likely an heavily optioned truck and the more it weighs, the less it will carry (and pull) It shows 9400 trailer weighting. Is it possible to pull 28-30 ft trailer with bare weight under 6,000 with this truck Almost anything is possible, but a 9000 lb gross trailer will have a tongue weight of about 1100-1200 lbs which will probably eat up the entire payload of the truck. without white knuckling the whole way? White knuckling it will be for sure Not opposed to adding air lift and anti sway hitch Adding air lift bags does nothing to increase the payload of the truck, it just helps level it out,, a WDH with effective sway control, will be a necessary item with a trailer of that size (if they work) and since retired will not be in a hurry so 55 or so is acceptable. I'm not a speed demon, but if you don't stick close to the traffic speed you can be putting your life in danger. I run about 65 most of the time. Thanks to all who can provide guidance

With a half ton truck of so-so capacity, you need to look at trailers of no more than about 24 to 25 ft (actual length) and those that don't weigh over about 6000 to 6500 lbs Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) as listed on the placard on the front left side of every trailer.

I have an older (2003) 3/4 ton truck (RAM 2500) with a diesel and pull a trailer that is 7500 lbs max and I run at closer to 6500-6800 lbs and am comfortable, but would not want to pull that trailer heavy with a half ton, that is for sure.

Charles
 
OK. After reading your comments and doing research I am back and wish to draw on this forum’s experience and expertise. As stated previously I am new to towing and don’t want to make another mistake (initial mistake was buying half rather than three quarter truck) but love the half and want to make it work. Next are the specs. Silverado Z71 LTZ w/ tow package. GCWR 15,000, GVWR 7100, curb 5339, max pay 1761, conventional twr 9400, max tongue 940. Found 27 ft Premier TT I like. GVWR is 7000 which allows for about 1500 stow so it’s about 5500 raw. Would install pro pride WDH with AS. Some mountain work most likely in the future. Can I pull this comfortably? Wife me and Shepard would add about 425 pounds (big Shepard). Wheel base about 147.5
 
15% of 7,000 GVWR is a 1,050 pounds tongue weight. ProPride WDHs besides being crazy expensive are also very heavy further increasing your tongue weight. You said your tongue weight limit is 940 pounds?

940 pounds tongue weight plus 450 pounds passenger weight is 1,390 pounds leaving only 371 pounds (1,761 pounds minus 1,390 pounds) of remaining payload capacity. And you may also be approaching or even exceeding your rear axle load rating.
 
love the half and want to make it work.
Before you get too far, I strongly suggest that you spend some time looking at the travel trailers and fifth wheel trailers that fit into your limitations. To determine the available weight limits for your truck, load it just as you would when towing the trailer and then take it to a scale and weigh it to get the actual weight to subtract from both the 7100 GVWR and the 15,000 GCWR. That is the only way to know what your practical limits will be. Your resulting payload will probably be between 1200 & 1500 pounds with the truck loaded for travel and full fuel tank. That should still leave you plenty of room for the tongue weight of any trailer that is under your GCWR.

I am wondering how you arrived at the length of 28 - 30 feet? Do you plan to live in the trailer full-time and not keep the house, or just use the trailer for long trips and perhaps snowbird trips? I really think that you can probably find something shorter than that which would serve you well and be comfortable, without pushing the GCWR that you have. Another consideration is that some of the ultra-lite weight travel trailers have aluminum frames that use of a weight distributing hitch violates the warranty of so watch for that. Have you considered one of the lighter fifth wheel trailers?
 
Last edited:
The OP talks about pulling mountain passes with the Z71 (which I really like), but it's going down the mountain passes that makes you grip the wheel. When my DW and I took I70 through Denver and the Eisenhower tunnel I told her "I drive the rig up the mountains", and "the rig will take us down" the mountain. Gear selection and braking work together.

I think just about everybody overloads their campers based on Mfg numbers. But, being conscious of the numbers will make packing the rig much more prominent in your mind.

I would imagine towing presents some compromises when considering tow vehicles. A heavier truck allows for more tow weight and power, but when you're using that truck as your daily driver you're now dealing with worse fuel mileage and a harsher ride.
 
The OP talks about pulling mountain passes with the Z71 (which I really like), but it's going down the mountain passes that makes you grip the wheel. When my DW and I took I70 through Denver and the Eisenhower tunnel I told her "I drive the rig up the mountains", and "the rig will take us down" the mountain. Gear selection and braking work together.

I think just about everybody overloads their campers based on Mfg numbers. But, being conscious of the numbers will make packing the rig much more prominent in your mind.

I would imagine towing presents some compromises when considering tow vehicles. A heavier truck allows for more tow weight and power, but when you're using that truck as your daily driver you're now dealing with worse fuel mileage and a harsher ride.
Yep, a comfortable ride, a comfortable trailer and good +20 MPG were important factors for us. Our goal was traveling economically, far, and fast and then comfortably and securely do dry camping in very beautiful and very remote locations far away from people indefinitely. Our Honda Ridgeline and Casita trailer enables us to go places that larger tow vehicles and RVs can't even remotely entertain going.
 
Last edited:
Another consideration is that some of the ultra-lite weight travel trailers have aluminum frames that use of a weight distributing hitch violates the warranty of so watch for that. Have you considered one of the lighter fifth wheel trailers?
Yep, great point! And aluminum frames will have a much shorter life than a steel frame in any event because aluminum has a limited fatigue cycle life which will than get shortened even more by salted road corrosion.
 
We are as near full timing as we can get, except we still have a house (I think) that my son has taken possession of. We have a 41.5 foot fifth wheel trailer towed with a 1 ton long bed, crew cab, dually, diesel towing beast. And sometimes, even this arrangement is too small!

The size of your camper all depends upon the style of camping you want to do. We have (almost) achieved full time camp hosting. I do the camp hosting, my wife still works 100% remote in software computer development. We depend upon electricity, the internet, and a camper that has the space to accommodate a campground's business. We need a camper that has space and can do it all .... including laundry!

But, this did not happen just ... wham-bang - over night! It took years of planning and it took 4 previous campers to finally get the one that would fit our long term needs. Campers kept getting longer, the truck remained the same. We did a smart thing by purchasing diesel dually's. We never had issues when moving up the camper length food chain. Again, we looked ahead several years so we would not have to purchase again and again. Unfortunately, it did take several trailers to get the one that actually worked, and worked well for us.

So, that is my advise .... determine your long-range goals, and purchase now with that goal in mind. It might take a while to actually get there, but once you are there, you'll be glad you made those decisions early.

FYI.... we had the truck paid in full after 3 1/2 years, and the fifth wheel completely paid off in 2 years. THAT makes a huge difference in the freedom it gives you when you go full time.

If you do plan on going full time, you really need to be 100% out of debt. THEN you can REALLY enjoy it!
 
Back
Top Bottom