Non-RV door install question

[Onyrlef]

Removed a small section of jam. Used a reciprocating saw with metal blade. That did a pretty good job. The jam is 1 1/4" thick. Typical 70+ year old home replacement issues. Doubt they make anything close today. I've got a table saw, compound sliding miter saw and router so could probably make a jam if I can't find anything suitable.

I managed to remove that small section of jam without damaging the stucco so I'm thinking I can do the install myself. I'll use some of that money to buy any tools I don't have. Always like buying tools.

You just need to build the rough hole out to the dimensions for the prehung door. +2" for width/ +2.5" for height. Ex. : For a 36x80 prehung door the ideal rough opening should be ~ 38" x 82.5" There's wiggle room but don't let a lack of room in the hole keep you from properly squaring the door up. If those dimensions seem overly generous you haven't followed a frame carpenter.

 

[TheBar]

I've hung many doors by myself. Prehung doors are easy. As Mark said I use 3" screws on the hinge and the lock plate. Anyone kicking the door in has to either break the door or the 2x6 in the wall. For wooden doors I use a steel or brass door and lock reinforcement.

 

[garyb1st]

You just need to build the rough hole out to the dimensions for the prehung door. +2" for width/ +2.5" for height. Ex. : For a 36x80 prehung door the ideal rough opening should be ~ 38" x 82.5" There's wiggle room but don't let a lack of room in the hole keep you from properly squaring the door up. If those dimensions seem overly generous you haven't followed a frame carpenter.

Existing door doesn't have a sill plate. Not sure how much room I'll need to add one but think it would be a cleaner look and also keep dust out. Currently there is about a 1" gap between the bottom of the door and the concrete.

 

[garyb1st]

I've hung many doors by myself. Prehung doors are easy. As Mark said I use 3" screws on the hinge and the lock plate. Anyone kicking the door in has to either break the door or the 2x6 in the wall. For wooden doors I use a steel or brass door and lock reinforcement.

Ever install fiberglass doors and if so, are there any differences or unique tools required? One report I've read said to let a contractor do a fiberglass door but didn't explain why.

 

[TheBar]

Ever install fiberglass doors and if so, are there any differences or unique tools required? One report I've read said to let a contractor do a fiberglass door but didn't explain why.

I've only installed wood and steel doors. Fiberglass should be lighter so I'd think they would be easier. The same principles of level and square apply whatever the door is made of.

 

[Onyrlef]

Existing door doesn't have a sill plate. Not sure how much room I'll need to add one but think it would be a cleaner look and also keep dust out. Currently there is about a 1" gap between the bottom of the door and the concrete.

Most prehung doors come with a threshold, however if this one doesn't you might consider installing it before sitting the door in the hole. Insuring the threshold is perfectly level in both directions will make life easier.

 

[Rene T]

I would buy a door with the threshold already installed. It will have a lip to seal the bottom of the door to keep rain out. Get one made out of aluminum if you can. Just put a heavy layer of caulking on the concrete floor before you set the door in place. This will seal between the threshold and the floor

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Ever install fiberglass doors and if so, are there any differences or unique tools required? One report I've read said to let a contractor do a fiberglass door but didn't explain why.

If only the door is fiberglass and not the frame, then the only difference is in attaching the hinge screws to the door (which presumably is already done in a pre-hung door). If the framing is also fiberglass (why?), then you need to be a bit careful about shimming and fastening the frame into the rough opening. Fiberglass should be screwed rather than nailed, and you need to be more careful in supporting it, prying into position, etc.

A quality exterior door is solid core rather than hollow, but metal & fiberglass exterior doors may be hollow but filled with insulation rather than being solid material. That makes a difference in how well the hinge screws "bite" into the door.

 

[SpencerPJ]

I flipped houses for 15 years, and did most of the work so I also have seen a few unique installations. This might not be a fan favorite, I always set door with minimal anchors and got everything perfect and plum. Then used a can of rigid foam, spray everything that will be covered with trim. Let it sit, it will get rock hard, won't move as the door as set. Then cut off excess foam, screw / nail frame to jam as needed and nothing moves, everything sealed. I like drilling pilot holes for everything as well. This trick works for exterior and interior doors. A hired employee taught me that early in my flipping days, I probably hung 50+ doors that way.

 

[Rene T]

Then used a can of rigid foam, spray everything that will be covered with trim. Let it sit, it will get rock hard, won't move as the door as set. Then cut off excess foam, screw / nail frame to jam as needed and nothing moves, everything sealed.

Just so everyone knows there are two types of spray foam. One is made for windows and doors and the other one is for insulating. If you use the one for insulating chances are you will warp the door jambs and window casings. It expands a lot more than the one for doors and windows

 

[SpencerPJ]

Just so everyone knows there are two types of spray foam. One is made for windows and doors and the other one is for insulating. If you use the one for insulating chances are you will warp the door jambs and window casings. It expands a lot more than the one for doors and windows

Doesn't warp a thing as long as it can escape both sides (and I never said I did it on windows). I said it would be unpopular, I just shared how it easily worked for years for me.

 

[Rene T]

Doesn't warp a thing as long as it can escape both sides (and I never said I did it on windows). I said it would be unpopular, I just shared how it easily worked for years for me.

I was only informing members that there are two types. On a outside door casing, it could have brickmold already installed so that path for expansion would not be there.

 

[Onyrlef]

If only the door is fiberglass and not the frame, then the only difference is in attaching the hinge screws to the door (which presumably is already done in a pre-hung door). If the framing is also fiberglass (why?), then you need to be a bit careful about shimming and fastening the frame into the rough opening. Fiberglass should be screwed rather than nailed, and you need to be more careful in supporting it, prying into position, etc.

A quality exterior door is solid core rather than hollow, but metal & fiberglass exterior doors may be hollow but filled with insulation rather than being solid material. That makes a difference in how well the hinge screws "bite" into the door.

In hollow core doors the hinges and will be screwed into blocks.

 

[garyb1st]

The door project is on hold. I managed to trip over my wheelbarrow last Saturday and messed up my left wrist pretty good. Didn't break it but after a week, it's still quite painful. Might have something to do with my advanced age. Turned 80 last month. Not quite ready for the walker but think maybe I need to slow down a bit.

 

[Onyrlef]

The door project is on hold. I managed to trip over my wheelbarrow last Saturday and messed up my left wrist pretty good. Didn't break it but after a week, it's still quite painful. Might have something to do with my advanced age. Turned 80 last month. Not quite ready for the walker but think maybe I need to slow down a bit.

Yep, at our age falling can be serious. Get well soon.

 

[garyb1st]

As they say, if it's not one thing, it's another. Can't believe it's been almost a year since I started this thread. However, yesterday, I installed a new Fiberglass pre-hung door.

The hardest part was removing the old door frame. The old brick mold was badly damaged by termites. Fortunately, the 2x4 framing studs were in good shape. Once the old door frame was removed and cleaned up, the new door went in with minimal effort.

The 2x4 framing studs the door screws into were both perfectly square. The concrete threshold was also perfectly flat. The only question mark was the rough opening. There was barely enough room to slide the door in. But it did go in and it's perfectly square. Didn't need shims and I don't know if I need to.

Now I need to figure out the space beneath the threshold and my concrete sidewalk. Previous door did not have a threshold. There is a gap beneath the threshold that I need to fill. The problem is the slope of the concrete sidewalk. There is a 1/2 inch gap on one side and a 1 1/2 gap on the other. As is, it presents a serious trip hazard.

My thoughts are 1, push some ready mix concrete into the opening, 2, place a few blocks of wood for support and then fill with an expanding foam or 3, remove the threshold. The threshold is 7 1/2" above the concrete garage floor on the interior and as mentioned, a small lip on the exterior side that is about a 1/2" on the left and 1 1/2" on the right.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the results. Still need to figure out the brick mold and 3 in gap above door which I think will require a piece of sheet rock. Previous owners installed an in-swing door as an out-swing door. Then to cover the gaps on the inside walls, put sheetrock over sheet rock and tons of joint compound to try to solve the issue. Not a pretty picture. lol

Any thoughts on the shimming and threshold will be greatly appreciated.

 

[1stimerver]

The last door I replaced went in very easily. The removal of the old door was the most work. The prehung door came assembled with shims between the door and the frame tied together with strapping. All I had to do was install some shims between the house frame and the door frame assembly so that the assembled door was centered in the opening. I drove long finishing nails thru the door frame where exterior shims were located to set the door.
After that I jus removed the shipping straps and finished nailing it in.
Doing a good job on the trim work was more trouble than hanging the door.

Safe travels and all the best.