I am redoing a vintage Camper

[Kirk]

to be honest I have never used propane. so I plan to change stove to 120 and get a water heater to do the same.

A typical electric cooktop is 240V and requires 30-50A. Smaller cooktops that use 120V need at least 20A. Most 120V water heaters draw between 8 & 15A. You have a 30A power cord and there is no way that this will work out. Did you plan to convert to electric heat too? If you do these things, at a minimum you will need to upgrade everything to a 50A power cord and distribution panel. Propane has been supplying RVs safely for more than 70 years now. You do need to have an LP detector for safety but you should also plan to have a CO detector and a smoke detector.

 

[rvlifer]

Our rv is 50amp and came with an induction cooktop. Never worked right and did weird stuff like the combination of burners could never be more than the max on one. If we had one set at 10 and turned on the other both went to a 5.

I always thought it was just broken and a pos but maybe that was by design to minimize power consumption

it broke the first time we moved the rv from the microwave turntable falling on it. DW forgot to pack it away lol. I can honestly blame her cause i kept a checklist of what to do to move the rv and that was on it. She prepoed the inside while i prepped the outside.

 

[mancave]

Recomeend you get the best insulation (highest r value) you can and dont forget about the roof, undercarriage, and slides. If you can get heat into an insulated undercarriage and include tank heaters that helps a ton even if you arent planning on doing much cold weather camping. If you get hit with a cold spell or dont get to winterize it in time that stuff makes it thay much easier to deal with.

Kirks point about having enough power without using propane appliances is a good one.

I found a electric stove top with 2 eyes/burners so it should be ok for that. I plan to get a new water pump and PEX tubing and all the wiring and stuff I need to have by March to be ready to install then I can move to insulation. I do plan to put it in the ceiling as well. the inside is gutted so I have no choice.

I can upload more pic here soon I just have to transfer from phone.

 

[mancave]

A typical electric cooktop is 240V and requires 30-50A. Smaller cooktops that use 120V need at least 20A. Most 120V water heaters draw between 8 & 15A. You have a 30A power cord and there is no way that this will work out. Did you plan to convert to electric heat too? If you do these things, at a minimum you will need to upgrade everything to a 50A power cord and distribution panel. Propane has been supplying RVs safely for more than 70 years now. You do need to have an LP detector for safety but you should also plan to have a CO detector and a smoke detector.

I will have all the detectors along with a fire extinguisher as well

 

[ferfer]

Mancave, I you are adding so much 120V appliances that you will not be able to support power demand with a 30 amp system. Under the best power consumption conditions you will have 3600 watts of power.

If you upgrade to 50 amp your RV can safely consume 12,000 watts of power simultaneously. You need this huge power increase.

I hope you study both 12V and 120V power systems and 30A vs 50A power.

I know you dismissed my suggestion install 50A but that was before all the 120V system changes. Kirk is giving you wise warnings that 30A power will not work.

You can not think as of RV power consumption the same as a house.

Jennifer

 

[RV_Lee]

Why get rid of a gas stove? They work awesome and dont use much propane at all. I love having the option to heat water, cook and heat the RV with propane

 

[rvlifer]

Why get rid of a gas stove? They work awesome and dont use much propane at all. I love having the option to heat water, cook and heat the RV with propane

i love ours and not trying to convince anyone against them but they do add a surprising number of pollutants to the air. I use an airgradient air quality monitor and the levels jump a ton during cooking. If you have breathing problems i could see why someone would avoid gas

 

[RV_Lee]

i love ours and not trying to convince anyone against them but they do add a surprising number of pollutants to the air. I use an airgradient air quality monitor and the levels jump a ton during cooking. If you have breathing problems i could see why someone would avoid gas

I generally have one of the maxx air's running plus the range fan, it been fine

 

[rvlifer]

I am with you. I dont have any problem with it. My wife was having breathing problems and was on 24x7 oxygen for a bit so i got serious about air quality. Bought a hepa filter and air quality monitors. Never stopped us from using the gas range or consider swapping it. I was just surprised how much it affected air qaulity.

I still put a gas range in the house we wil be moving into soon lol. Not a fan of electric ranges

 

[Larry N.]

If we had one set at 10 and turned on the other both went to a 5.

I always thought it was just broken and a pos but maybe that was by design to minimize power consumption

No, that is by design. My brand new 2016 Ventana had a dual burner induction stove and did exactly that. But that was rarely a problem, either, since once things have heated (very short time indeed) 5 or less is all you need. Under the counter it was plugged into a single 20 amp outlet, so both of them past 5 would be more load than the outlet could take.

And even at 5, most things still heated and cooked quickly.

 

[mancave]

Mancave, I you are adding so much 120V appliances that you will not be able to support power demand with a 30 amp system. Under the best power consumption conditions you will have 3600 watts of power.

If you upgrade to 50 amp your RV can safely consume 12,000 watts of power simultaneously. You need this huge power increase.

I hope you study both 12V and 120V power systems and 30A vs 50A power.

I know you dismissed my suggestion install 50A but that was before all the 120V system changes. Kirk is giving you wise warnings that 30A power will not work.

You can not think as of RV power consumption the same as a house.

Jennifer

I didn't dismiss it. I haven't fully decided. However If I want to upgrade to 50amp would I just need to change the shoreline cord and breaker and everything else would remain the same with wiring it up?

 

[Kirk]

However If I want to upgrade to 50amp would I just need to change the shoreline cord and breaker and everything else would remain the same with wiring it up?

No, there is more to it than that. It is your RV so do whatever you wish.

 

[mancave]

No, there is more to it than that. It is your RV so do whatever you wish.

I think I am going to keep the propane stove, well I have to get another one but I am gonna keep it. I don't want to change the 30amp out.

 

[mancave]

I want to do it right and safe so Im going to take your advice and keep the propane stove.

 

[Kirk]

I would strongly suggest that you also keep the propane water heater and furnace. If you have a propane detector, CO detector, and a smoke detector, which everyone should have anyway, then you will be safe. There is an add-on electric unit for the RV furnace which gives you a choice of propane or electric, but they are expensive and take more space, which is limited.

 

[rvlifer]

No, that is by design. My brand new 2016 Ventana had a dual burner induction stove and did exactly that. But that was rarely a problem, either, since once things have heated (very short time indeed) 5 or less is all you need. Under the counter it was plugged into a single 20 amp outlet, so both of them past 5 would be more load than the outlet could take.

And even at 5, most things still heated and cooked quickly.

Thx. I hated that thing partially cause it only had 2 burners. We like to cook and had a hard time going down from an 8 burner range in our last house to a 2 burner range in the rv.

 

[Larry N.]

Thx. I hated that thing partially cause it only had 2 burners. We like to cook and had a hard time going down from an 8 burner range in our last house to a 2 burner range in the rv.

Yes, the reduced space and capability going from a house to an RV, even the large 45 foot ones, means we have to change and live with a LOT of things that we prefer.

 

[ferfer]

A 30A system (3600 watts) is common and not bad but you have to manage power. For instance, likely will not be able to run a microwave, hair dryer or electric coffee maker and air conditioner at same time. Changing systems to 120V power systems decreases the power available to run other systems.

For 30A or 50A power you must be connected to shore power or generator. The 12V system uses batteries to power keeps lights, absorption fridge, hot water heater, AC thermostat etc.

As Kirk said... this is your RV, labor and money. Since you have gutted the 120V electrical system figured was a good time to evaluate upgrading electrical system. Not necessary if you do not tax current 30A 3600W available.

If I want to upgrade to 50amp would I just need to change the shoreline cord and breaker and everything else would remain the same with wiring it up?

Google - how to upgrade 30 amp to 50 amp

The following site appears to be informative:

Step-by-Step Instructions for Upgrading Your RV from 30 amp to 50 amp

In an era where RV travel is increasingly popular, ensuring your motorhome is equipped to handle modern electrical demands is paramount. In the article

e3camping.com

Jennifer

 

[mancave]

A 30A system (3600 watts) is common and not bad but you have to manage power. For instance, likely will not be able to run a microwave, hair dryer or electric coffee maker and air conditioner at same time. Changing systems to 120V power systems decreases the power available to run other systems.

For 30A or 50A power you must be connected to shore power or generator. The 12V system uses batteries to power keeps lights, absorption fridge, hot water heater, AC thermostat etc.

As Kirk said... this is your RV, labor and money. Since you have gutted the 120V electrical system figured was a good time to evaluate upgrading electrical system. Not necessary if you do not tax current 30A 3600W available.



Google - how to upgrade 30 amp to 50 amp

The following site appears to be informative:

Step-by-Step Instructions for Upgrading Your RV from 30 amp to 50 amp

In an era where RV travel is increasingly popular, ensuring your motorhome is equipped to handle modern electrical demands is paramount. In the article

e3camping.com

Jennifer

I gutted because the wiring was damaged so I would rather rerun it then take a chance.
I have stopped working on it for now since its getting cool here so it will be March before I get back to it unless we have a warm winter. I however will be making a plan and determine what I need and such so I can get back to it.

If I could ask a question about propane. should I have two tanks? One for stove and one for water heater?

Anyway I appreciate all ya help from everyone and if I have questions I will ask it in this thread as I feel everyone on here is great.

 

[rvlifer]

Yes, the reduced space and capability going from a house to an RV, even the large 45 foot ones, means we have to change and live with a LOT of things that we prefer.

We didnt have to compromise much on the range. We swapped the induction cooktop to a residential 5 burner gas cooktop that fit and didnt weigh any more than the old one. The only trick was getting the lp conversion which is easy and running a propane line. I was a little worried about heat cause it is next to a wall but we are careful and havent had any issues in the 2 yrs we have had it.