Q about likely needed roof repair

[bogart]

Hi, all,

Just back from our first spring trip in our 2006 Jayco 28BH.  One night I got up in the top bunk in the back of the trailer and noticed definite "squiggling" of the interior wall for about a 3*3' section, suggesting water damage.  As far as I can see/feel, there is nothing on the outer (exterior) part of the wall but definitely on the interior.

Because of where we were parked and the equipment we (didn't) have with us, I couldn't actually see the section of the roof right over that part of the TT.  But I did climb up and it looks like the TT basically has a solid (single sheet) rubber roof.  My assumption is that there is a section of roof over that part of the wall that has developed a tear or gap.  Is that likely?  And if so, I am hoping that a reasonable repair strategy would be to fill it in/cover it with silicone caulk.  Is that an OK approach?  Obviously this isn't a high-end trailer but we would like to keep using it for many years and want it to stay structurally sound and functional.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

-- bogart

 

[tnguy]

if the water damage is on the wall then there could be a tear or cut in the rubber roof from a tree limb or something dragging on it, they make special glue for that rubber and im sure that the rv dealers have it in stock on the shelves, one thing get it fixed as fast as you can because it dont take long to ruin a good camper with a  water leak

 

[Alfa38User]

Don't overlook the roof  to wall joint or end cap joint  and any windows in that area. You may have to remove some  trim (usually  a plastic covered channel-like piece with screws under it) for a good inspection. Should you find some damage to the roofing material or the roof/wall/end cap joint, there is a very good tape product called Eternabond that is made especially for 'rubber' roof repairs.

 

[Water Dog]

As Stu suggested, Eternabond tape is excellent for repairing tears or cracks. Another possibility is leaks around upper clearance lights (if you have them).

 

[Molaker]

You may have to remove some  trim (usually  a plastic covered channel-like piece with screws under it) for a good inspection.

This can be a particularly allusive problem area.  If you have the common aluminum trim with the vinyl insert that covers the screws, peel back the vinyl then take a few screws out and inspect them.  What can happen is moisture can rust the screw, causing the screw diameter to reduce, opening a water path past the screw and the putty seal underneath.  Look for rusty screw shafts.  If you find some, particularly near the suspected leak, the trim s/b taken up and resealed.  Eternabond double-side sticky tape is great for this.  Then reattach trim with new screws.

 

[bogart]

Many thanks, all, this is a big help.  Off early tomorrow morning to track down some of that tape.  Hopefully at Walmart, the nearest camping world is a good distance from me.

-- bogart

 

[powderman]

I doubt you will find Eternabond at Wallyworld (I have never seen it there), but if you have a roofing supply house, they usually carry it.  Just so you wont think they are messing with you, a 4" by 50foot roll should be about $55 to $60.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Order it online and you will have it in a few days. You probably want the variety that has the white topside and sticky on the bottom, but there are several other choices as well. The double-sided stuff is great for sealing fixtures to a roof, e.g. a roof vent or skylight.

http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1021

 

[Lottofix]

That is just what a local RV repair person recommended. The rusty screw indicates a leak where as s/s screw does not though. Inspect on time plan and you will catch all leaks. The aluminum rail for the vinal strip is in my opinion a BAD design for horizontal attachement. I live in a very wet area,Pacfic North West. I was inspecting/replacing top vinyl trim. All my white tipped screws were rusted BAD evenly over 27 feet. This seemed funny as my vertical trim only had a few. Removing them I noticed most had rusted from outside in not from leak from behind butel tape. They all rusted evenly. There was a fair bit of slime/

 

[Lottofix]

That is just what a local RV repair person recommended. The rusty screw indicates a leak where as s/s screw does not though. Inspect on time plan and you will catch all leaks. The aluminum rail for the vinal strip is in my opinion a BAD design for horizontal attachement. I live in a very wet area,Pacfic North West. I was inspecting/replacing top vinyl trim. All my white tipped screws were rusted BAD evenly over 27 feet. This seemed funny as my vertical trim only had a few. Removing them I noticed most had rusted from outside in not from leak from behind butel tape. They all rusted evenly. There was a fair bit of slime/grime under trim. Conclustion I came up with is that the water gets under Vinyl and only needs to touch bottom of screw to start rust reaction WATER SITS IN RAIL!

 

[Lottofix]

Also they close the ends with fancy fold in vinyl. How is water to escape in a reasonable time. Maybe seal top and bottom of tape to keep out water and dirt and seal front end of vinyl tape leaving end for water to drain and park on small slope to rear?

 

[Lottofix]

I have heard some Plumbers Tape is sold as Butyl Tape. Totaly different! XFasten on Amazon I proper tape. More expensive but what’s your Motorhome and labour worth?

 

[Kirk]

More expensive but what’s your Motorhome and labour worth?

The last post before yours was June6, 2011.

 

[CharlesinGA]

The last post before yours was June6, 2011.

And the OP has not been here since 2013.