Winter weather prep

[Trivet]

Then 2-1500 watt heaters will draw about 25 amps.

If they're actually running at full power. I have four or five 1500-watt space heaters, and all have lost oomph over the years. I use a Kill-a-Watt to measure their actual draw, and apportion them among the circuits. The place we stay in Denver, sometimes during the winter, has two 20-amp outlets available to use. They're on separate breakers. We use one to plug the coach in to, and will run a space heater in there along with the other usual loads (and turning off the space heater to use the microwave, for example). We use the other outlet to plug individual space heaters in to, usually a 250-watt one in the basement storage where the water pump and water lines are, and bigger draw one inside.

The OP could do something similar with the power at his pedestal, assuming that the pedestal is wired such that the outlets don't share the incoming power, and it can handle putting out 30 amps and 50 (or actually 100) amps simultaneously. Not all can. But if so, plug the coach into one of the outlets, and plug heaters directly (via adapters) into the other outlet. And use appropriately beefy (gauge, not appearance) extension cords.

Actually, I'd suggest that anyone using space heaters test them with a Kill-a-Watt. It's good to know if your 1500-watt one is actually a 1000-watt one, even if you have unlimited power. And conversely, I bought one a couple of years ago that was wired weird or something, and was drawing twice what it should have been--too much for the Kill-a-Watt to measure, but when I disconnected the wiring for half of the heater elements, it was 1500 watts. I don't know what led me to check it before using it, but I'm glad I did.

 

[rvlifer]

Lots of good suggestions above.

Holding tank heaters and a heated water line are a must. I carried around a mr heater portable interior propane heater with its own 20lb tank. Those kick off a lot of heat and when the small tank ran out i could swap it with one of the bigger rv tanks to buy me time to get them refilled.

If you are hooked up and have an electric fireplace in the rv they help a lot. When i overnighted in very cold weather i would leave that running overnight in case the propane ran out.

The mr heater and a portable electri heater in the underbelly saved me on more than one occassion.

If your underbelly isnt heated finding aome way to get heat in there is needed to protect your plumbing.

Condensation can be a huge issue so opening windows and running exhaust vents at strategic times helps a lot.

 

[Kirk]

There are several full timers in the park just need to talk to them but this has to be an achievable goal or no one would do it.

Absolutely do talk with others in the park if they have been there through previous winters. Keep in mind that not all RVs are the same in terms of insulation, air penetration, and such issues. Your RV will probably be plugged into the 30A outlet but there are adapters for connecting your 30A RV to the 50A outlet and/or adapters to change the 30A or 50A outlet to use a typical cord & plug for one of the heaters or something similar. There very likely is also 20A outlet that could be used and then run a high quality extension cord to have a heater under the RV and inside of the skirting to keep things from freezing there. That may be needed if your waste tanks do not have a heat source. Since the RV did have optional heat pads for the waste tanks, it is very unlikely that there is any heat supplied to the underbelly. If you do that, be very careful with the heater to avoid fire issues. I don't think that anyone intends to say that this can't be done, only that it will not be easy or cheap. Talking to others in the park will also allow you to learn where they get propane and most other possible issues. Most RV folks are more than willing to help so do get in touch with those neighbors as soon as possible.

 

[Robert89]

Lots of good suggestions above.

Holding tank heaters and a heated water line are a must. I carried around a mr heater portable interior propane heater with its own 20lb tank. Those kick off a lot of heat and when the small tank ran out i could swap it with one of the bigger rv tanks to buy me time to get them refilled.

If you are hooked up and have an electric fireplace in the rv they help a lot. When i overnighted in very cold weather i would leave that running overnight in case the propane ran out.

The mr heater and a portable electri heater in the underbelly saved me on more than one occassion.

If your underbelly isnt heated finding aome way to get heat in there is needed to protect your plumbing.

Condensation can be a huge issue so opening windows and running exhaust vents at strategic times helps a lot.

I was actually getting on today to see if anyone knew of a good thread detailing an install of the tank heaters? I saw some on amazon but if you have recommendation on product as well please feel free to leave that as well! Thanks for the post

 

[Robert89]

Absolutely do talk with others in the park if they have been there through previous winters. Keep in mind that not all RVs are the same in terms of insulation, air penetration, and such issues. Your RV will probably be plugged into the 30A outlet but there are adapters for connecting your 30A RV to the 50A outlet and/or adapters to change the 30A or 50A outlet to use a typical cord & plug for one of the heaters or something similar. There very likely is also 20A outlet that could be used and then run a high quality extension cord to have a heater under the RV and inside of the skirting to keep things from freezing there. That may be needed if your waste tanks do not have a heat source. Since the RV did have optional heat pads for the waste tanks, it is very unlikely that there is any heat supplied to the underbelly. If you do that, be very careful with the heater to avoid fire issues. I don't think that anyone intends to say that this can't be done, only that it will not be easy or cheap. Talking to others in the park will also allow you to learn where they get propane and most other possible issues. Most RV folks are more than willing to help so do get in touch with those neighbors as soon as possible.

First of all thank you for the post, I am learning that this trailer probably isn’t the best choice for RV in this area especially for prolonged winter stays. There is not heat supplied to the underbelly but there is what i feel to be more than ample power availability at the pole and i have already contacted the local co-op for a tank rental with keep full service. Probably will be looking into trading this trailer in on a more feasible trailer after this season just need to make it through without damage.

 

[Robert89]

If they're actually running at full power. I have four or five 1500-watt space heaters, and all have lost oomph over the years. I use a Kill-a-Watt to measure their actual draw, and apportion them among the circuits. The place we stay in Denver, sometimes during the winter, has two 20-amp outlets available to use. They're on separate breakers. We use one to plug the coach in to, and will run a space heater in there along with the other usual loads (and turning off the space heater to use the microwave, for example). We use the other outlet to plug individual space heaters in to, usually a 250-watt one in the basement storage where the water pump and water lines are, and bigger draw one inside.

The OP could do something similar with the power at his pedestal, assuming that the pedestal is wired such that the outlets don't share the incoming power, and it can handle putting out 30 amps and 50 (or actually 100) amps simultaneously. Not all can. But if so, plug the coach into one of the outlets, and plug heaters directly (via adapters) into the other outlet. And use appropriately beefy (gauge, not appearance) extension cords.

Actually, I'd suggest that anyone using space heaters test them with a Kill-a-Watt. It's good to know if your 1500-watt one is actually a 1000-watt one, even if you have unlimited power. And conversely, I bought one a couple of years ago that was wired weird or something, and was drawing twice what it should have been--too much for the Kill-a-Watt to measure, but when I disconnected the wiring for half of the heater elements, it was 1500 watts. I don't know what led me to check it before using it, but I'm glad I did.

What kind of camper are you in? Do you mind telling me more about how you’re setting your rig up for those cold nights?